"L.O.L. delivers a compact, technical 5.10a sport climb on the Middle Tier face of San Bernardino Mountains. Perfect for climbers seeking precise bolt clipping and face climbing challenges with straightforward anchors and solid rock."
L.O.L. stands as a compact but challenging sport climb set against the rugged Middle Tier face in the heart of the San Bernardino Mountains, just off Highway 38. This route invites climbers to engage a dynamic mix of technical sequences and face climbing, perched roughly 100 feet above a forested creek corridor. The line begins with a compelling bolt ladder that inclines left across slanting holds, teasing your balance and footwork as you negotiate a crucial crux where a gap demands either a detour following a crack to the right or a bold direct move over it. As you push past this hurdle, the terrain softens into more straightforward face climbing, allowing a bit of breathing room while you scout one of three solid anchor points perched near a scraggly bush that seems to guard the ledge. If you decide to push further, the second pitch offers a sustained 5.10a climb along a vertical, blocky face leading to the ridge line, with convenient anchors that mark the edge and allow for safe descents.
Approach down Highway 38 rewards you with ever-changing vistas of the San Bernardino range’s grit and greenery. The route’s orientation on the left side of the middle tier ensures morning shade, preserving good friction even in warm weather. As you clip your way up, the bolts are well spaced but demand attentive clip placement—no rush here. The rock quality is solid but expect some weathered edges that require careful footwork. The route's relatively short length makes it a sharp, focused challenge perfect for climbers looking to dial in their 5.10 technique while enjoying a less crowded slice of California’s mountain climbing scene.
Gear up with 10 to 12 quickdraws to manage the bolt spacing and anchor transitions efficiently. The variation on the second pitch adds an adventurous element to your day, offering a little extra mileage and exposure towards the top of the ridge. Though the climb is bolted, having a solid rack for anchors and rappelling remains essential because of the three separate rappel stations leading safely back to the base. Water, solid climbing shoes with good edging ability, and moderate patience during the crux moves will serve you well on this engaging wall.
Though not widely voted on—just over a dozen climbers have weighed in—the route’s 2.8 average star rating suggests it may not be a classic for everyone but remains a rewarding challenge that fits neatly into a day of precise, focused climbing. The relatively low crowd levels here mean the sound of the nearby creek and forest becomes an intimate soundtrack, while the cool shade of the morning sun keeps conditions comfortable. A climb offering mild complexity, solid protection, and a chance to stretch your skills amid towering pines and rough granite—a compelling option for intermediate sport climbers ready to push themselves in an accessible but authentic mountain setting.
Watch for loose rock around the anchor areas near the bush, and double-check all bolt clips carefully—some bolts require precise placement to avoid rope drag or dangerous falls. The rappel stations are reliable but involve multiple rope lengths, so manage your gear and communication effectively to prevent issues on the descent.
Start early to benefit from morning shade and cooler rock temperatures.
Wear shoes with solid edging capabilities to handle the slanty holds and blocky face.
Pay close attention to bolt placements near the crux to avoid awkward clips.
Carry enough water and snacks—trail access near Highway 38 is moderate but not extensive.
Bring 10 to 12 quickdraws to smoothly clip bolts and secure anchors. The route features multiple anchor options near a bush at the top of pitch one. The second pitch requires use of bolted anchors at the ridge for rappels, with three rappel stations ensuring a safe descent to the ground.
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