"Logan's Run presents an approachable 80-foot sport climb with a sharp crux near the top, set against the striking backdrop of Officer's Gulch in 10 Mile Canyon. Ideal for climbers stepping into moderate terrain, it offers solid protection and a rewarding test of technique."
Logan's Run offers a concise yet engaging climb tucked within the rugged contours of Officer's Gulch West, an easily reached sector of 10 Mile Canyon in Colorado. This 80-foot sport route combines straightforward terrain with a punchy crux that keeps the attention just before the final bolt, inviting climbers to sharpen their footwork and focus. The rock here is solid, featuring a sequence of bolts spaced to encourage confident clipping while still requiring mindful movement through the pitch. Officer's Gulch itself sits in a high-desert environment where the sun carves shadows across steep, rocky walls, and the dry air carries the scent of pine and sun-warmed stone.
Approach to Logan's Run is direct and user-friendly, following a well-worn trail from the parking area down to the base, taking roughly 10-15 minutes. The path unwinds through scattered scrub and patches of lodgepole pine, with enough exposure to offer expansive views of the surrounding canyon. Elevation here sits just shy of 8,000 feet, so climbers should be aware of the thinner mountain air when planning their effort.
For protection, the route is equipped with eight bolts threading through the climb to a solid two-bolt chain anchor, making it a reliable sport climb that balances safety with the thrill of movement. The rock’s texture—often warm beneath the hands—demands focus during the sequence leading to that final clip, where the crux challenges you with delicate balance and precise positioning.
The climb is straightforward enough for those stepping up to 5.8 sport routes but leaves room for a subtle test of skills, rewarding clean foot placements and body tension. Given its sun-facing wall and open exposure, mornings or late afternoons provide the best temperatures, particularly in the warmer months. Cooler seasons deliver crisp conditions that sharpen grip but call for sturdy layering to handle brisk canyon winds.
Descending from the anchor is achieved with a single rope rappel down the route, an easy process on solid chains. Climbers should always double-check rigging and anchor integrity before the descent, especially if conditions have been wet or if mountain storms have moved through recently.
Whether you're looking for a dependable warm-up route or a quick challenge during a day spent exploring 10 Mile Canyon’s climbing corridors, Logan's Run stands out as a compact climb that delivers clear, focused movement on good rock amid a setting that feels expansive and wild. Plan for hydration, wear grippy shoes suited for moderate edges, and time your climb to avoid the harsh midday sun. With this preparation, the climb’s brief but satisfying pitch will leave you ready for more or the perfect close to a day in the Colorado high country.
Climbers should be cautious during the descent rappel as the chains, though solid, require confirmation before use. The sun-exposed approach can become slippery with loose debris after rain, so trail care is advised.
Time your climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-facing wall.
Wear shoes with good edging capability to handle small footholds near the crux.
Bring ample water, as shade is limited along the approach trail.
Check anchor bolts before descent, especially after recent weather changes.
Eight bolts provide secure clipping points, leading to a two-bolt chain anchor. Standard sport climbing gear is sufficient; a single 70-meter rope covers the rappel descent.
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