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Locksmith at Bear Mountain: A Brief, Traditional Climb Among Rugged Boulder Faces

New Brunswick, Canada
gully climb
boulder squeeze
runout
traditional gear
single pitch
forest setting
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Locksmith
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Locksmith offers a straightforward but engaging trad climb on Bear Mountain’s Second Tier. This single-pitch route challenges climbers with a distinctive gully and a tight boulder squeeze finish, perfect for those seeking a concise adventure amid New Brunswick’s rugged forested terrain."

Locksmith at Bear Mountain: A Brief, Traditional Climb Among Rugged Boulder Faces

Locksmith is a concise but rewarding traditional climbing route located on the Second Tier of Bear Mountain, also known locally as Bald Hill, in New Brunswick, Canada. This single-pitch climb runs approximately 50 feet and delivers a modest 5.6 PG13 challenge perfect for climbers looking to experience classic trad moves on natural features without committing to a lengthy ascent. The route starts on the right side of a prominent roof, where an unmistakable gully carves its way upward. This gully forms the heart of the climb, inviting you to test your balance and technique as you work your way through. As you approach the top, the route demands a careful squeeze through a cluster of boulders. For those with a leaner build, pressing through these tight spots offers an authentic and satisfying finish. Larger climbers might consider a slightly different exit—climbing out and above the boulders—though the difficulty of this alternative remains unconfirmed and may provide a more adventurous, ungraded finale.

The route lies within a forested area where surrounding trees frame the climb with a quiet, natural boundary. The exposed rock surface is textured enough to provide steady friction, essential on a climb rated at 5.6 but deserving respect for its PG13 warning, hinting at runout sections where protection may stretch your confidence. A standard rack of traditional gear works well here; placements are generally solid but demand attention to detail, especially near the route’s end.

Bear Mountain’s location offers a glimpse of northern New Brunswick’s rugged outdoor character—quiet, minimally trafficked, and embedded within a landscape of wooded hills and craggy outcrops. The approach is straightforward and dry underfoot, making it an excellent option for climbers who appreciate a brief outing with a practical edge. On clear days, the surrounding views extend subtly over tree-covered ridges, while humming breezes carry the sounds of the forest, lending a peaceful atmosphere that contrasts with the physical focus required on the route itself.

Given the climb’s exposure and rock features, timing your ascent during daylight hours is essential, both for safety and to enjoy the natural ambiance fully. The brief but committed wall challenges you to respect the protection gaps without feeling overwhelmed by technical difficulty, making Locksmith a fitting pick for intermediate trad climbers seeking a clear test of skill and nerve. Whether you’re warming up for longer climbs or simply craving a neat adventure with practical gear demands, this route fits that niche firmly.

Prepare appropriately: sturdy climbing shoes for grip on the stone, a well-stocked trad rack configured toward smaller to medium cams and nuts, and a helmet to guard against loose stone near the roof sections. Hydration and light snacks are advisable given the climb’s peaceful but remote setting—it pays to be ready for a few hours of exploration around the area. Local guides recommend starting early in the day to avoid afternoon shade that can cool the rock and diminish friction.

In sum, Locksmith delivers a no-frills trad experience rich with character, a compact climb where focus meets nature, creating an adventure that’s practical to plan but engaging enough to reward you with a quiet crescendo amid the boulders and woodland around Bear Mountain.

Climber Safety

The route’s roof area and boulder finish present loose rock hazards; wearing a helmet is strongly advised. The PG13 rating warns of extended sections without gear, so ensure your trad placements are solid before committing to moves. Assess your escape route carefully if the boulder squeeze feels restrictive.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach the climb early in the day for dry, warm rock and better friction.

Bring a helmet due to loose stone near the large roof and boulder sections.

Carry smaller cams and nuts to fit the gully’s narrow cracks effectively.

Plan your exit through the boulders based on your size; larger climbers might need an alternate, ungraded route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 PG13 rating signals a climb that’s moderate in technical difficulty but demands respect for protection spacing, especially approaching the finish through the boulders. The grade feels fair, not overly soft, with a possible crux in managing tight moves near the top. Compared with other New Brunswick trad climbs, Locksmith provides a gentle but mentally engaging test.

Gear Requirements

A standard traditional rack is recommended to manage the protection needs of Locksmith. While placements are generally trustworthy, the PG13 rating signals some runout spaces requiring careful gear placement and attention near the boulder cluster finish.

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Tags

gully climb
boulder squeeze
runout
traditional gear
single pitch
forest setting