"Local Boys Do Good offers a compelling mix of slab finesse and a steep, bolt-protected crux bulge on the iconic Shannon Falls Wall. This three-pitch climb balances technical demands with the natural beauty of Squamish’s granite cliffs, delivering a memorable adventure for intermediate climbers."
Local Boys Do Good carves a distinctive line on the Shannon Falls Wall, inviting climbers into a thrilling blend of technical slab and sustained bulge climbing, all wrapped in the raw beauty of Squamish's iconic granite. Starting just left of the well-traveled Klahanie Crack, this three-pitch route demands both focus and finesse as it ascends a featured, clean swath of rock.
The first pitch introduces you to a dike section peppered with bolts, requiring precise footwork and steady hands to inch upward past multiple clip points. The rock here offers confidence with well-placed holds, but the sharpness calls for careful touch and steady pacing. This pitch, graded 5.10b, leads to a hanging belay that lets you catch your breath while soaking in views spilling out across the surrounding forested slopes and distant peaks.
Pitch two is the heart of the climb, presenting a steep bulge well-guarded by bolts—a crux that tests your strength and technique. This section, rated 5.11a, demands a combination of power and balance as you wrestle with overhung holds, moving deliberately through the steepest challenge on the route. Above the bulge, the climbing eases yet remains engaging, shifting onto smoother slab terrain before reaching another hanging belay. Thanks to solid protection and a clear line, the pitch flows despite its intensity.
The final pitch offers a quieter, less frequented slab stretch at 5.10a PG13. It’s a measured conclusion that rewards controlled movements and allows climbers to reconnect with the subtle textures of the granite face. Two bolts protect this finishing section, guiding you toward the anchor that caps the experience.
The route is protected exclusively with quickdraws, reflecting a bolt-rich sport-trad hybrid style that supports confident progression without the stress of placing gear. Climbers appreciate the clarity this provides, especially through the crux bulge. Approaching or retreating the route is straightforward, with rappels from the anchors making descent efficient and secure.
Shannon Falls Wall enjoys a favorable temperate climate, and this line benefits from partial shade during early morning and late afternoon climbs. The best seasons to visit stretch from spring through early autumn when the granite is dry and friction is high. Being part of a renowned climbing area with abundant amenities nearby, it makes for a well-rounded day of climbing intertwined with the natural splendor of the coastal landscape.
Essential gear includes a full rack of quickdraws and standard sport climbing equipment. Footwear with a sensitive edge is crucial to maximizing grip on slab sections, while chalk helps maintain confidence through technical sequences. Given the bulge’s intensity, climbers are advised to warm up thoroughly and approach with clear focus.
Local Boys Do Good is well-suited for confident intermediate to advanced climbers looking to push their limits on Squamish’s granite with a route that combines variety, quality protection, and steady commitment. Each pitch reveals a different facet of the rock’s character, blending sharp technical moves with moments of calm slab climbing — a dynamic offering memorable for the engaging climbing and the striking setting.
Whether you’re refining your sport-trad transitions or eager to experience a classic crux in a legendary climbing destination, this route delivers equal parts challenge and reward. The consistent flow of bolts paired with solid granite offers a safe yet stimulating venue to test your skills, surrounded by the raw pulse of British Columbia’s rugged wilderness.
While the bolts are reliable, the final pitch’s slab sections have fewer protections and require precise footwork to avoid falls. Climbers should check that rappel gear is functioning properly and be prepared for short walk-offs if conditions change. The rock is generally solid but remains sharp, so careful hand and foot placements reduce injury risk.
Start early to benefit from morning shade on the wall.
Bring sticky-soled shoes for optimal slab grip.
Chalk up frequently on the bulge to maintain confident holds.
Rappel anchors are fixed—check your rappel gear before descending.
The climb requires quickdraws only, thanks to its well-established bolts protecting key sections including the crux bulge. Carry a full rack of quickdraws sized for sport climbing; no traditional gear placements are needed.
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