Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingLizzard the Gizzard

Lizzard the Gizzard: A Power-Packed Sport Climb on Cayman Brac

Cayman Brac, International
sustained
limestone
endurance
technical moves
pumpy finish
island climbing
stick-clip needed
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lizzard the Gizzard
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lizzard the Gizzard delivers a punchy, 80-foot sport climb on the jagged limestone of Cayman Brac. Expect sustained moves, elusive holds, and a pumpy finish that demands focus and endurance in a breathtaking island setting."

Lizzard the Gizzard: A Power-Packed Sport Climb on Cayman Brac

Lizzard the Gizzard is a stand-out sport climb set against the raw limestone cliffs of Dixon's Wall on Cayman Brac. Clocking in at 80 feet of sustained movement, it demands focus and strength from the first bolt to the anchors. The approach introduces you to a rugged stretch of Caribbean wilderness, where the warm island air mixes with the limestone’s sharp texture under your fingertips. The route opens with a challenging stick-clip, a crucial move that sets the tone for the climb. From there, the sequence unfolds with intricate holds that test finger strength and body positioning — every reach matters.

As you press on toward the stalactite band, the climb intensifies. This section forces you to read the rock carefully: the holds are generous but elusive, hiding just out of plain sight, pushing climbers to trust their body and beta. Pump builds steadily here, turning the endurance dial up as you battle past the toughest moves. The limestone's subtle pocket lines and jugs reward precise footwork and commitment. By the time you reach the two-bolt anchor, your forearms will be screaming, but the payoff is in the sense of accomplishment and the widescreen views the cliff edge offers.

Protection is straightforward but high quality — ten titanium bolts guarantee security and peace of mind on the lead. Climbers are advised to come equipped with a stick-clip to confidently manage the opening bolt. The route's single pitch nature makes it ideal for climbers looking to push their limits in a compact but demanding setting, or those keen on sharpening their sport climbing skills in a remote island location.

Approaching Lizzard the Gizzard means immersing yourself in Cayman Brac’s unique natural environment — a rugged limestone island known for its pristine rock and Caribbean charm. The climb’s position on the wall ensures a mix of sun and shade, making mornings and late afternoons the perfect window to avoid overexposure to the tropical heat. Water and hydration are critical in this climate, as the physical demands combined with island warmth can quickly sap energy.

This route does not offer much room for rest; clenched fingers and locked shoulders will be company until you clip the anchors. However, the reward lies not just in the physical test but the feeling of carving upward through a demanding line with a strong, clear character. For climbers ready to embrace a bold challenge and test endurance on technical limestone, Lizzard the Gizzard provides an experience that is as exhilarating as it is fulfilling.

Climber Safety

The initial stick-clip is critical for safely engaging the route. Holds, while solid, can be deceptively hard to read, so planning your moves before committing reduces the risk of premature pump or slips. The tropical climate enhances dehydration risk, so pacing and hydration are vital.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Use a stick clip to manage the first bolt without a dreaded fall.

Start early to avoid the afternoon Caribbean heat on the face.

Hydrate well—this sustained route can drain your energy quickly.

Scout the beta before the stalactite band to conserve strength on tricky sequences.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11d rating suits this climb’s consistent challenge perfectly. The route doesn’t offer easy crux rests; instead, the difficulty comes from a series of closely spaced, technical moves that exhaust forearms steadily. Compared to nearby sport routes on Cayman Brac, this line demands higher endurance and mental focus.

Gear Requirements

Ten titanium bolts protect this climb, anchored by a two-bolt station. A stick-clip is essential to safely start on the first bolt and avoid risky falls.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Lizzard the Gizzard and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sustained
limestone
endurance
technical moves
pumpy finish
island climbing
stick-clip needed