"Little Lieback is a steep, gritty test of trad skill at Joshua Tree’s Roadside Rocks. With loose rock and a challenging hand traverse, it demands confident placements and steady focus over its 60-foot pitch."
Little Lieback presents an uncompromising challenge for trad climbers craving a demanding test of technique and nerve at Joshua Tree's Roadside Rocks area. This single-pitch route stretches 60 feet straight up a steep, gritty wall where the rock doesn't just sit quietly—it threatens to give way beneath your hands. Expect a bold sequence that blends classic lieback moves with open-handed offwidths, pushing climbers to commit fully before reaching a precarious hand traverse toward the top. The rock’s condition is an ever-present factor; loose sections demand controlled movements and an attentive approach to body positioning.
Protection calls for a stout rack of wide gear, with placements running up to nearly 4 inches. This is not a climb for the cautious rack builder—secure, confident gear placements will be your lifeline on this steep face. The route’s compact length belies its intensity, making it a perfect climb to sharpen skills on powerful, technical cracks where finger jams give way to fist stacks.
Approaching Little Lieback is straightforward but reminds you that Joshua Tree’s uniqueness lies in its desert environment—wear sun protection and carry plenty of water to stay sharp and hydrated. The area is easily accessible, with Roadside Rocks sitting along the main park roads, providing quick access while still delivering a raw and exposed climbing experience. Early morning ascents offer the best conditions when the rock surface cools, and winds ease, keeping grips secure and your focus sharp.
This route isn't wrapped in polished comfort. The hand traverse near the top demands careful footwork and steady hands to avoid slipping on loose flakes, making it essential to check each hold before trusting it. Still, Little Lieback rewards climbers who embrace its boldness with a surge of adrenaline and a memorable test of trad prowess within one of California's most iconic desert parks.
Loose rock near the hand traverse makes careful testing of holds essential to avoid unexpected falls. Protection placements are tricky in spots, so take your time finding secure placements and avoid pulling on suspect flakes.
Approach early in the morning to avoid overheating on the wall.
Inspect holds carefully; some rock is loose, especially near the top traverse.
Carry a rack heavy on wide cams and big nuts for protection.
Wear sturdy shoes with good edging to manage the steep crack system.
Bring wide cams up to 4 inches to protect the offwidth sections. Small and medium gear will not hold, so focus on solid placements early.
Upload your photos of Little Lieback and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.