"Little John, Right is a crisp 160-foot trad climb on the north side of El Capitan, blending slab and crack climbing with solid protection and manageable terrain. Ideal for trad climbers stepping up to multi-pitch adventures in Yosemite’s iconic granite walls."
Rising steadily on Yosemite's north side, Little John, Right presents itself as a distinctive 160-foot slab that dares climbers to test their skills along a right-facing corner. This route lies just beyond the familiar climb of Moby Dick, delivering a straightforward yet rewarding crack climb that demands steady footwork and smart gear placement. Starting about 120 feet uphill from Moby Dick, this line begins with an inviting corner crowned by a small roof roughly 20 feet above the ground. Negotiating this feature challenges your technique and focus, with the roof acting as a gatekeeper that separates casual effort from committed climbing.
Above this section, the climb opens into a stretch filled with cracks that lead into what locals call "The Improbable Traverse." This leftward move introduces a subtle shift in the route's character, requiring deliberate balance and calm in placing protection while managing exposure on the slab. The route continues to a belay station at the base of a shallow, flared dihedral. This final section, with its distinctive rock features, offers a chance to blend crack climbing with attentive slab movement as you ascend toward the treetop where the route finishes.
Protection on Little John, Right is straightforward but demands an active rack with pieces up to 2.25 inches. Gear placements are solid, yet the occasional flare and slab sections call for precision and confidence in gear placement. Climbers should approach this climb with shoes that allow sensitivity on slabby footwork, alongside a harness loaded for sustained crack climbing.
The approach is manageable, with a well-trodden path that rises through classic Yosemite vegetation, edged by granite formations that begin to feel larger as you near the base. Latitude 37.72933 and longitude -119.63783 place the climb firmly within Yosemite National Park’s iconic surroundings. The route enjoys good sun exposure through much of the day, making spring and fall the ideal seasons to climb — avoiding the intensity of summer’s heat and winter chill.
Descending involves a walk-off that is runnable if taken cautiously, but climbers should be prepared for a short scramble over uneven terrain back to the base or trail. The climb’s moderate length and solid protection make it well-suited to those building trad skills in an environment that balances challenge with accessibility.
With a rating of 5.8 and three pitches, Little John, Right offers an excellent mix of crack and slab climbing, ripe for anyone eager to get a taste of Yosemite’s granite personality without the intensity of some of El Capitan’s longer routes. Whether you’re honing fundamentals or looking for a reliable multi-pitch day, this climb provides both a physical and mental workout wrapped in the grandeur of Yosemite’s valley walls.
Watch your protection in the roof section—it demands precise placements to reduce fall potential. The flared dihedral near the top can give a false sense of security; daisy chain placements with care. Also, keep an eye on weather conditions, as damp rock can significantly increase difficulty.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on the slab.
Carry shoes with sticky rubber and good sensitivity for slab footwork.
Use extended runners on the traverse to reduce rope drag.
Be prepared for a short scramble on descent; shoes with good traction help.
Protection requires cams up to 2.25 inches to navigate the flared cracks and small roof. A standard trad rack with medium-sized cams is essential, focusing on careful placements in the slab and corner sections.
Upload your photos of Little John, Right and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.