Rising sharply in the rugged San Juan Mountains of Colorado, the Little Finger presents a climb that tests grit as much as skill. This alpine trad route offers a raw and rarely polished challenge over roughly 250 feet, divided into four pitches that reveal both the mountain’s stubborn character and its subtle rewards. From the first 50 feet, the path forces you onto a narrow crack just right of the west chimney, where loose, weather-worn rock demands deliberate movement and cautious placements. The large chockstone topping this section not only marks the end of a crux but also offers welcome sanctuary for the first belay, guarded by medium stoppers nestled in an alcove.

The climb is not for the faint-hearted: wet sections and brittle rock command respect and careful footwork. The crux involves a mandatory clip of a piton about a dozen feet up, a key hold in an otherwise uncertain sequence. Protection opportunities arise here with a .3 C4 and a red C3 cam—both crucial for inching through the gully and chimney beyond. Falling off this section risks a serious drop and a long, painful retreat, making precision and calm under pressure vital.

After surmounting the crux, the route lures you upward through features that demand continuous assessment. Small to medium-sized stopper placements line the way on the right wall, guiding you toward an obvious weakness that opens an exit from the chimney. This section calls for trust in fragile holds and patience with the looseness of the terrain—the belay sits on unstable boulders that must be treated with care.

Pitch two transitions markedly from the initial challenge, dropping down the opposite side of the boulders before a brief downclimb into an adjacent gully. This segment moves into a four-class scramble, where climbers follow easy but exposed ground toward a large rock horn beneath an imposing chockstone. Approaching this key spot, you’ll find the confluence of two chutes just below. Keep a lookout for webbing on the right chute, a practical marker amid the natural roughness.

Gear placements here warrant caution: long runners are recommended to reduce drag, as the route curves and twists along the gully. Pitch three continues with chimney moves that are straight-forward at fifth-class difficulty. Belay points suitable for a secure stance await just above the boulder, setting you up for the final pitch.

The summit push spans about 20 feet of moderate climbing—straightforward moves that reward with expansive views from the peak. Descending is a well-planned affair, starting with a rappel off the summit boulders to your initial chimney area. A 100-foot rappel lands you atop a massive chockstone, but an alternate rapping option behind the stone into the gully is available, followed by a short downclimb to a second set of pitons outfitted with fresh green webbing for safety.

Navigating the descent requires attention: the rappel off the pitons back to the alcove near the crux piton is the final stretch, concluding the climb and setting delicate footsteps back onto stable ground. Climbers brought a 100-foot Mammut Serenity rope complemented by a 100-foot tag line, ensuring comfortable rope management on the varied pitches.

Little Finger is a reminder that alpine climbs with less-refined rock demand respect and a slow, tactical approach. It is not a route for those chasing flawless holds or easy navigation, but for those willing to read the mountain’s subtle signs, it offers an authentic, gritty alpine adventure in the heart of Colorado’s wild San Juans.