Just a short drive west of Bishop, California, Little Egypt stands out as a sanctuary for climbers seeking challenging crack routes on rock reminiscent of the iconic Buttermilks but with larger and more commanding formations. This area is a rare find—offering sustained technical crack climbs that demand skill and precision, all framed by quiet surroundings where the usual crowd disperses.

The climbing here is pure and straightforward, with cracks that reward those who bring ample tape and patience geared toward tackling splitter cracks. With an elevation hovering around 6,600 feet, Little Egypt’s dry Sierra air allows for climbing almost any time of year, avoiding the heat waves that plague lower elevations in summer and the deep snows of winter.

Access is part of the adventure. Leaving Bishop, you’ll navigate west on State Route 168, heading toward Lake Sabrina. Pay attention about 1.5 miles past a giant S-curve to turn left onto Bishop Creek Road. Follow a short stretch to a small asphalt parking lot near an unassuming power plant. The trail begins subtly with a dirt road running alongside a water pipe, followed by a quick right onto the climbers’ path that leads downhill to Bishop Creek. Here, crossing the creek can be tricky—sharp rocks are slippery, and water flow depends heavily on the season, especially in spring with snowmelt swelling the stream. Hiking poles are invaluable for balance as you pick your way across, ready to get your shoes wet.

Once across, a short but steep climb brings you to a ridge crest that opens to the collection of Little Egypt’s crags sprawled out below. The approach covers almost half a mile with 360 vertical feet of gain, winding through forests and exposed slopes that prepare both body and mind for the climbs ahead.

Classic lines here showcase the area's exceptional crack climbing pedigree: “Chick Dead” sets a firm tone; “Dog Killed It” tests climbers at 5.9; “Classic Crack” and “Warrior Waitress” (aka Caravans) both challenge around 5.10a. As difficulty increases, routes like “4 Those About 2 Rock”, “Welcome to the Dark Side”, and “King Tut’s Tomb” offer intricate crack systems at 5.10c grades. Venturing further into the 5.11 realm, “Do Not Take The German People Li…”, “Cannibal”, and “Espresso Crack” demand experienced technique on more demanding cracks. These names carry solid reputations, highlighting the area’s consistent quality and the push required.

Protection on Little Egypt is true to crack climbing tradition. It’s essential to carry ample tape to protect delicate finger cracks, alongside a well-rounded rack tuned for cracks from small to large. Climbs here reward precise gear placements rather than fixed anchors, making preparation fundamental.

Aspect-wise, the crags generally face south or southeast, pulling in sunlight most of the day and making them ideal for cooler months and early spring. In warmer months, early mornings are best before the heat sets in. The exposure is comfortable, avoiding harsh winds that often rattle higher alpine cliffs nearby.

When your climbs end, the descent follows the approach in reverse. Care crossing Bishop Creek cannot be overstated—water level and slick rocks can quickly turn an easy exit into a slippery challenge. Stay mindful of creek conditions, especially during the spring thaw, and consider timing your visit to avoid afternoon increases in flow.

Little Egypt offers a welcome alternative to the busier Buttermilks, providing demanding crack climbs without the crowds. Its year-round accessibility, coupled with big Sierra views and classic routes, invites climbers ready to push their crack skills in a quiet, off-the-beaten-path setting.

Whether you’re tuning your crack technique or seeking a place to escape the bustle of Bishop’s most popular venues, Little Egypt delivers with grit and grace. Pack your tape, prepare for careful creek crossings, and dive into some of the Eastern Sierra’s hardest cracks where adventure meets practicality every pitch of the way.