Liquid Gold cuts a demanding trail through the heart of Squamish’s Bulletheads area, challenging climbers to balance finesse and endurance over four pitches of solid, technical trad climbing. This route, once dismissed in guidebooks for its persistent dampness and aid rating, has shed its old skin. Freed recently at 5.10d, it now offers a compelling mix of crack systems, finger jams, and slab moves that push climbers to stay sharp on gear and technique.

Approaching the rock, you’ll find yourself at the foot of The Chief's less-traveled north face, where cool shadows temper the morning sun. The Bulletheads rise like giant guards, their granite faces polished but still holding character in seams and cracks that invite hands and cams alike. The first pitch requires thoughtful route-finding: a left-facing crack leads to a tough layback that tests footwork on slabby friction holds. The tension builds as you decide whether to drift left or right across overlaps, with the belay stance sitting in a corner that rewards you with a brief sense of relief.

The second pitch dares climbers to master jamming in a left-facing flare with placements that hold but challenge your confidence. Parts of this pitch may still wear some moisture, so be ready to commit to clean moves rather than weight on gear. Moving out of the flare, a wider crack inclines upward before flowing into an undercling that offers a solid belay spot in a cozy alcove.

Next, the chimney on pitch three commands respect, especially when placing high cams to protect wide offwidth moves. The sequence demands careful choreography to keep gear from snagging as you downclimb momentarily before escaping to the face. Finger cracks toward the pitch’s end lead to a treed ledge — a welcomed resting point before tackling the final and most demanding pitch.

Pitch four is a test of stamina and judgment: a nearly 70-meter rope-stretching push straight up a clean face with no fixed protection. Here, natural gear is your lifeline — nuts, and a comprehensive set of cams, particularly doubles through #3 Camalots, are essential. The key to success is managing rope drag with ample runners and pacing yourself through several cruxes. One particularly tough move in a corner demands commitment, but beyond it the climbing flows with sustained jams and technical sequences, culminating in a forested ledge where the tension finally eases.

This climb thrives on preparedness. Tape gloves are a must to handle the abrasive rock and protect from damp patches that linger even after warm spells. Expect the route to require a dry spell of at least two weeks to fully shed its wetness. The traditional gear placements, especially on the final pitch, call for careful planning: carry a wide range of cams, plenty of nuts, and enough slings to minimize drag on the long haul. The approach follows established trails into The Bulletheads, but be mindful that the descent involves careful downclimbing or setting up rappels from sturdy natural anchors.

Liquid Gold is a rite of passage — demanding but rewarding, technical yet straightforward in its rock demands. For climbers with solid trad skills craving a full day of sustained 5.10 climbing with varied crack styles against the stark granite of Squamish, this route shines. It pairs climbing’s mental game with physical endurance, set in a natural amphitheater that tests focus and gear savvy alike. Prepare well, respect the rock, and you’ll find Liquid Gold to be a memorable link in Squamish’s diverse climbing repertoire.