"Lion's Den is a 35-foot trad crack climb in Boulder Canyon that challenges your hand and fist jams with solid protection and subtle face holds. Rated around 5.9, this line rewards precise technique amid an accessible, shaded northern wall."
Carving through Boulder Canyon’s rugged landscape, Lion's Den offers a focused adventure for trad climbers eager to test their crack climbing skills. This 35-foot climb demands precision and commitment as it climbs a substantial hand and fist crack that threads its way up a polished granite face. The crack widens just enough to accept large hand jams, pushing you to engage your technique rather than relying on surface holds alone. Sparse face holds appear intermittently, offering brief relief but not enough to carry the climb without crack proficiency. The exposure is real but manageable; protection placements are secure with the right pro rack, providing confidence amid the demanding moves. At a solid 5.9 rating, some climbers have found the route edging toward 10a difficulty, reflecting the delicate balance between power and finesse this line requires.
The approach through Boulder Canyon is straightforward, cutting through forested paths peppered with the rustle of pine needles and distant bird calls. This trail leads you to the base of the wall in under 20 minutes, setting the perfect stage for a climb that feels like a blend of approachable adventure and technical challenge. The canyon’s northern aspect means that during summer mornings, the wall catches gentle sunlight, warming the stone without making it uncomfortably hot. Afternoon climbing offers cooling shade but can bring a dampness that softens friction slightly.
Gear up with a doubled set of cams from #1 to #4 Camalots, as the crack’s size fluctuates but leans towards wider placements. Carry a standard rack for building a secure anchor at the top. The rock here is solid, with no unexpected runouts; well-placed protection is a feature rather than a flaw. When planning your climb, timing is key—early season to late fall is ideal, avoiding icy winter conditions that turn the granite into a slick hazard.
The descent is straightforward: a single rappel down the route or a careful downclimb through nearby ledges brings you back to the canyon floor efficiently. Keep an eye on your ropes and double-check your anchors to ensure a smooth and safe exit.
Lion's Den delivers a crisp, technically rewarding climb that balances a sense of wildness with dependable protection. It invites both intermediate climbers ready to push past the 5.9 boundary and seasoned locals seeking a quick but authentic Boulder Canyon climb. Expect a crack climb that tests your jamming skills against solid granite, set against a backdrop of sweeping canyon views and the quiet pulse of the Rockies.
Watch for tricky placements deep in the crack—protection can feel shallow in spots. The rock is solid, but rappel anchors require double-checking. Avoid icy conditions as granite friction drops sharply when cold or damp.
Start your climb in the morning to enjoy warming sun on the wall without overheating.
Stick to hand and fist jams; face holds are limited and unreliable.
Check gear placements thoroughly, especially in the back of the crack where jams get tricky.
Rappel with care and secure your anchor twice before descending.
Bring a double set of cams from #1 to #4 Camalots for varying crack widths. A standard rack will cover anchors and smaller placements.
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