"A compelling single-pitch trad climb on Queen Crimson Dome’s left face, Like My Lump offers a blend of moderate cracks and technical slab moves. With a serious runout past a solitary bolt, this 5.10a R route demands precise footwork and measured protection in the heart of Joshua Tree's stark desert landscape."
Like My Lump presents a captivating single-pitch trad climb on the left flank of Queen Crimson Dome, situated within the sprawling Joshua Tree National Park. This 70-foot ascent charms with a blend of moderate cracks and technical slab moves, offering a compelling challenge for climbers who appreciate variety and strategy on a less frequented face. Starting just above the more obvious crack known as Nerve Damage, the route traverses slab terrain that demands precise footwork and focused balance. Climbers will encounter average quality cracks that provide solid handholds before the crack line narrows, ushering you into a series of delicate slab moves ascending leftwards toward a solitary bolt. This bolt marks a thoughtful protection point but warns solo aggressors of an uninviting fall if missed—the 'R' rating highlights the serious nature of a slip beyond this anchor.
The rock here, characteristic of Joshua Tree's coarse granite, offers a tactile experience—rugged yet reassuring under firm shoes. The slab sections demand deliberate pacing; each move tests your nerve and encourages smooth weight distribution rather than brute force. Above the bolt, several plausible lines lead to the summit, each presenting variations of slab terrain punctuated by friction-dependent foot placements and subtle crimps.
Preparation is critical for this climb. Standard trad gear suited for Joshua Tree, including a full rack with an emphasis on small cams—especially tiny TCU-sized pieces and Aliens—is essential to manage the narrow crack and provide flexible protection. A single quarter-inch bolt serves as a critical midway safeguard, complemented by a gear anchor at the top for a secure descent.
Queen Crimson Dome itself is tucked amid the desert’s rugged expanse, a place where the sun’s angled light shifts the rock’s color palette through the day, enhancing textures and shadows. Climbers should time their ascent to avoid the peak afternoon heat; morning climbs offer cooler conditions and better traction. The approach is manageable but brief, leading from the Desert Queen Mine parking area through classic Joshua Tree terrain—granite sands, scrub brush, and intermittent juniper trees providing welcome shade.
Descending this route involves careful rappelling from the gear anchor at the summit. Attention to knots and rappel devices is a must because the arid environment can quickly wear ropes if brush or ledges aren’t negotiated properly. A clear look below before committing will ensure safety on the rappel.
With a modest length and a deliberate rating of 5.10a R, Like My Lump is a solid test of slab climbing technique merged with the mental edge required for a runout scenario. It’s an ideal introduction to moderate exposure climbs within Joshua Tree’s quieter sectors, perfect for climbers craving a bit of solitude combined with a refined challenge. Whether refining crack placements or honing friction moves on slab, this route demands respect and rewards composure, leaving climbers with a lasting impression of the desert’s stark beauty and climbing purity.
Falls above the lone bolt pose significant risk due to limited protection options. Ensure confidence on slab moves before attempting, and maintain focus on precise gear placements to minimize danger. The rappel descent requires proper rope management to avoid rope damage on rock edges.
Plan your climb for morning to avoid the intense midday sun and heat.
Bring a full trad rack focusing on small cams to protect the thin crack sections.
Double-check your rappel setup on the gear anchor before descending.
Approach via the Desert Queen Mine parking lot and follow well-marked trails for about 15 minutes.
Standard Joshua Tree rack including small TCU-sized cams and Aliens are essential for this route. The bolt high on the slab provides some protection, but expect to rely on precise gear placement in the narrow crack. A solid anchor is set up with gear at the top for your rappel.
Upload your photos of Like My Lump and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.