"A concise, engaging single-pitch trad climb on Purgatory Rock’s western face, Light of Salvation tests your crack technique with solid jams and a pocket of looser rock near the top. Ideal for hands-on climbers ready to move efficiently through a classic Colorado crack system."
Perched on the western flank of Purgatory Rock, Light of Salvation offers a focused single-pitch challenge that blends straightforward approachability with a touch of technical intrigue. Starting with a class 3 scramble onto a ledge, the climb immediately draws you to two prominent parallel cracks—your route follows the left one, where solid hand jams command attention and steady progression. Halfway up, a comfortable ledge provides a brief moment to catch your breath and appreciate the rugged character of the crack system. Beyond this resting point, the climb demands careful foot placement as you navigate a brief section of loose, fractured rock—this crux requires patience and precision before you reach a perfect hand crack that makes full use of your gear.
The crack itself is an inviting host for standard BD C4 cams ranging from 0.5 to 3, with an optional double in the #2 size for extra peace of mind. What the route lacks in length compared to larger climbs, it makes up for with consistent features that engage your hands and feet, maintaining rhythm and flow. The setting at Purgatory Rock pulls you into Colorado's rugged terrain, where the air smells of dry pine and earth, and the sky often stretches wide and clear. The rock’s qualities—some solid, some slightly unsettled—reward attentive climbers with a sense of connection to the raw, elemental nature of the area.
Approach is straightforward, involving a short scramble from the south side, with terrain yielding an easy path to base ledges. Anchoring requires thoughtful placement; it’s crucial to avoid positioning your rope directly through the crack to prevent rope drag or damage. Having a partner clean the route and rappel off a webbing or chockstone anchor positioned north of the finish keeps the descent smooth and safe.
Though this climb suits intermediates looking to refine crack climbing skills, awareness of the crux’ loose rock and proper gear management elevates the experience beyond a simple scramble. Conditions tend to be best in spring through early fall when dry weather stabilizes the rock and the surrounding environment thrives. Footwear with solid edging capability will help with slabby sections leading into the crack, and carrying extra protection runners can be a smart move to minimize rope drag. Light of Salvation offers a brief but satisfying intersection of challenging moves and Colorado’s sharp alpine air that welcomes climbers aiming to sharpen technique without venturing into the full wilderness.
The brief crux features chossy rock that requires cautious, deliberate movements to avoid dislodging loose stones. Anchors must be chosen carefully to prevent ropes from running through the crack, which can cause damage or complications during descent.
Scramble carefully up class 3 terrain to reach the base ledge where the route begins.
Avoid feeding rope through the crack at anchor to prevent rope wear.
Expect a small crux section with loose rock—move deliberately here.
Best climbed from spring through early fall during dry weather for stable rock.
This route relies on a single rack of BD C4 cams from size 0.5 through 3, with an option to carry a double #2 for better protection redundancy. Anchoring off webbing or a chockstone positioned north of the top is essential to avoid rope damage.
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