HomeClimbingLiebacker's Lullaby

Liebacker's Lullaby: A Wild Trad Crack in Pinnacles National Park

Soledad, California United States
crack climb
chimney
multi-pitch
condor habitat
east-facing
laid-back
traditional gear
Length: 240 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Liebacker's Lullaby
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Liebacker's Lullaby stands out as one of the few trad crack climbs in Pinnacles National Park, delivering three pitches of varied and engaging climbing. This route offers climbers an opportunity to experience classic gear placements amid rugged terrain and striking geological features."

Liebacker's Lullaby: A Wild Trad Crack in Pinnacles National Park

Liebacker's Lullaby offers a distinctly rare trad experience at Pinnacles National Park, carving out three invigorating pitches of crack climbing that break from the area's usual face climbs and bolt ladders. This route invites climbers to engage with clean hauling moves and technical lies, set against the park's rugged Central Coast backdrop. From the first pitch’s chimney/gully blend to the final airy lieback, the climb blends straightforward protection with pockets of tricky footwork and route-finding that rewards focus and careful gear placements.

Beginning at a shaded base tucked on Pinnacles’ East Side, the approach leads you into an environment of sharp stone and retreating scrub. The first pitch rises through a 5.6 chimney framed by twin cracks, demanding deliberate movement and attention to avoid dislodging the occasional loose rock. As the cracks vanish and lichen patches mark the transition, a deliberate leftward traverse on warm reddish stone draws you toward a ledge flanked by a fixed piton—your first secure rest point.

Pitch two shifts into classic liebacking, climbing the corner with a wide crack that asks for steadiness and patience at 5.8 difficulty. This section is peppered with unique character—from the wide orange crack overhead to the unmistakable presence of condor nesting remnants—a vivid reminder of the wildness threading through the climb. Outstanding cams on the large holds provide a comfortable belay, offering a moment to soak in the isolated landscape.

The final pitch dances between careful route choices. To avoid fragile, lichen- and droppings-covered rock, climbers traverse right, selecting solid holds before re-entering the corner to follow the 5.7 lieback to the summit. With pitches two and three short yet complex, a long rope (60 meters) and thoughtful extension of placements with slings and extra cams will smooth the link-up for those eager to move fluidly.

Protection for Liebacker's Lullaby is straightforward but demands preparedness: a standard single rack to 5 inches, with doubles in the 2 to 3-inch range, paired with small to medium tri-cams for the tricky placements on pitch two’s holes. The fixed piton at pitch one and a secure 3-bolt anchor atop the climb provide solid points of safety.

The surrounding climbing area, set within Pinnacles National Park, is rugged and lightly trafficked outside of summer weekends. The geology here combines volcanic spires and steep walls that present an adventurous playground largely untouched by heavy metal, preserving opportunities for gear-dependent ascents.

Given the route’s east-facing aspect, morning climbs bring cooling shade, while afternoons offer warmth without harsh sun exposure. Spring and fall are ideal seasons when temperatures stabilize and the risk of overheating diminishes; summer approaches risk heat spikes, and winters can turn sloppy and damp.

Getting to Liebacker's Lullaby starts with a moderate hike through park trails, with terrain transitioning from chaparral to open rock slabs. The approach takes roughly 45 minutes from the nearest trailhead and rewards travelers with lush views of the Pinnacles ridges and valleys. GPS coordinates mark the trailhead at 36.47038 latitude and -121.18195 longitude.

The descent follows a straightforward scramble down the backside, marked by loose rocks and narrow ledges. Climbers should exercise caution and avoid rushing, especially if descending late in the day when shadows obscure footing.

Liebacker's Lullaby offers climbing enthusiasts a chance to test traditional skills amid distinctive landscape—this is crack climbing with character, demanding yet accessible, wrapped in the quiet expanse of California’s Central Coast.

Climber Safety

Loose rock exists especially on the chimney section of pitch one, requiring careful movement. Some ledges contain bird droppings, which can be slippery. The descent involves loose rock and narrow ledges; descend cautiously to avoid falls or dislodging debris.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length240 feet

Local Tips

Use a 60 meter rope to link pitches two and three efficiently, employing slings and extra cams to extend pro placements.

Start early to benefit from morning shade on the east-facing wall and cooler temperatures.

Be cautious of loose rock on the first pitch chimney—avoid pulling down unstable sections.

The descent involves scrambling on loose, narrow ledges; avoid descending late to prevent missteps in fading light.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grading feels true-to-difficulty with a moderate crux on pitch two's lieback corner. While the rating is fairly approachable for those comfortable with crack climbing, gear placements and technical footwork demand attention. Compared to other Pinnacles climbs dominated by bolted face climbs, this route offers a refreshing gear-protected, sustained crack experience that feels stiffer than many local sport routes.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard single rack to 5 inches, with doubles in the 2 to 3-inch range. Small to medium tri-cams are useful for tricky holes on the second pitch. The first pitch includes a fixed piton for belay, and the top anchor consists of three bolts.

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Tags

crack climb
chimney
multi-pitch
condor habitat
east-facing
laid-back
traditional gear