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Lickety Split at Las Estrellas Main Wall

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
sport
single pitch
steep
rope drag
arid environment
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lickety Split
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lickety Split challenges climbers with its steep, engaging moves on a single pitch bolted route at El Potrero Chico. While the rock quality varies, the line offers a rewarding test of technique and focus against a backdrop of dramatic canyon walls."

Lickety Split at Las Estrellas Main Wall

Lickety Split stands out on the imposing Las Estrellas Main Wall, a beacon for climbers drawn to steep, dynamic moves within the rugged contours of El Potrero Chico’s dramatic limestone corridors. The single-pitch 5.10d route demands precision and commitment, coaxing climbers to navigate its quirky line where the bolts, placed to accommodate rock quality shifts, create a zig-zag pattern that forces careful attention to rope management. While the rock here can be abrasive and occasionally fragile, those willing to engage with its challenges find rewarding sequences that test finger strength and body positioning against a backdrop of Northern Mexico’s dry, sun-soaked canyon walls.

The climb’s setting within El Potrero Chico places it in one of North America’s premier climbing destinations, where vast walls rise from arid slopes under wide blue skies. As you approach the base, the heat intensifies the senses—cactus shadows stretch across the trail, and the desert air hums softly with distant birdcalls. The route’s exposure to the sun means timing your ascent to either early morning or late afternoon improves comfort and performance.

Rope drag can become a real factor here, as the bolts follow a non-linear path dictated by patchy rock sturdiness. This means smooth, deliberate clipping and mindful rope management are critical to maintain flow and avoid interruptions while climbing. The bolts provide solid security, though some placements require trusting the hardware more than the rock’s natural features, so confident clipping and attention to positioning are paramount.

The approach to Lickety Split is straightforward, carving a trail through rocky terrain scattered with xeric plants and offering views across Las Estrellas Canyon, where limestone cliffs rise like vertical monuments. Ideal footwear should combine sticky rubber with firm edging support to negotiate the steeper overhung sections and technical face moves. Hydration is essential in this arid locale—bring plenty of water and protect yourself from sun exposure.

Though it’s a quick climb by pitch count, the sustained difficulty and rock quirks make it a satisfying challenge for those looking to sharpen sport climbing skills in a unique canyon environment. This is a route that rewards focus, careful footwork, and tactical clipping, unfolding in a stunning natural amphitheater that remains one of Mexico’s climbing highlights. Whether you are working through 5.10d grades or pushing your limits, Lickety Split offers a compact but vivid taste of El Potrero Chico’s character.

Climber Safety

The route's bolts compensate for variable rock quality, but some holds near protection may be fragile. Carefully test each move and avoid falling on questionable spots. Rope drag from the bolt’s zig-zag pattern also requires management to prevent sudden disruptions mid-climb.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Climb early or late in the day to avoid intense sun and heat.

Bring extra webbing or a longer quickdraw to reduce rope drag.

Wear shoes with firm edging and sticky rubber for better grip.

Stay hydrated and protect yourself from the dry sun exposure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, Lickety Split offers sustained technical climbing with a crux that demands precise movement. The grade is true to standard but feels harder due to rope drag and the cautious clipping required on less-than-perfect rock. Climbers familiar with El Potrero Chico's sport routes will recognize this as a moderately stiff challenge blending physical and tactical demands.

Gear Requirements

The route is secured by bolts placed to navigate areas of compromised rock stability. Expect some rope drag due to the bolts zig-zagging, so extra attention to clipping is necessary.

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Tags

sport
single pitch
steep
rope drag
arid environment