HomeClimbingLick Crack

Lick Crack: A Focused Trad Climb in Castlewood Canyon

Denver, Colorado United States
finger crack
hand crack
top rope friendly
sunny exposure
short pitch
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lick Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lick Crack delivers a concentrated trad climb along a narrow crack in Castlewood Canyon SP. This short but technical pitch blends finger jams and face holds into a precise 5.8 test well suited for climbers honing trad techniques."

Lick Crack: A Focused Trad Climb in Castlewood Canyon

Lick Crack offers a precise, down-to-earth trad climbing experience situated within the rugged environs of Castlewood Canyon State Park, just south of Denver. This single-pitch climb stretches roughly 30 feet along a sharp, narrow crack that challenges climbers to blend finger and hand jams with smarts on face holds. Unlike more sprawling routes nearby, Lick Crack delivers a condensed burst of climbing where every move counts, presenting an accessible yet engaging step into trad climbing for those looking to sharpen their skills without committing to a multi-pitch adventure.

The approach to Lick Crack is straightforward, following well-trodden park trails through ponderosa pines and scrub oak that whisper reminders of Colorado’s dry foothills. The wall itself is exposed to the sun much of the day, which means morning ascents reward climbers with cooler rock temperatures and less glare. The crack’s slim profile demands thoughtful gear placements and steady technique, making it well-suited for climbers comfortable placing small cams and nuts or those keen to practice top-roping before venturing further into gear-intensive routes.

Protection for this route is either top rope or traditional gear, with the crack providing solid placements but also inviting careful evaluation of flares and constrictions. The rock is generally sound, though the crack’s narrowness requires precision in both movement and protection. Expect a moderate 5.8 rating that feels true to its grade, with no soft spots or unexpected cruxes—this is straightforward climbing where technique and discipline rule the day.

Castlewood Canyon’s surrounding landscape pulses with dynamic contrasts: sun-dappled trees lining the approach water the senses with pine scents and the occasional rustle from wildlife nearby, while the cliff’s sun-baked sandstone beckons climbers to step up and engage with the rock. After climbing, the park offers ample opportunities to stretch legs on easy trails or dip into the quiet of the canyon. Hydration is key here—dry air and sun exposure can quickly sap energy, so plan accordingly with water and gear choices.

Whether you’re adding a solid single-pitch to your repertoire or easing into traditional protection, Lick Crack embodies a direct, no-frills encounter with Colorado’s vertical terrain. Perfect for a focused morning climb, it leaves you mentally sharp and physically primed for whatever comes next on your outdoor climbing journey.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock occasionally tucked within the crack, especially near the top. The approach trail can be slippery after rain, so tread carefully with good footwear. During summer, sun exposure can increase risk of heat exhaustion—carry plenty of water and consider climbing early.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of cooler morning shade on the wall.

Bring a full trad rack with small cams and nuts sized for finger to hand cracks.

Hydrate well — the canyon's dry conditions can dehydrate quickly.

Scout the approach trail map to find the shortest route to the base of the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels balanced with a clear, consistent style throughout the pitch. The crack demands solid technique but avoids forcing climbers into overly difficult moves, making it a reliable grade to test trad fundamentals. This climb is less stiff than many Colorado classics but offers enough challenge to keep it engaging.

Gear Requirements

Traditional gear or top rope setups work well here. The crack’s narrow profile calls for small to medium cams and nuts, plus spot-on placements to ensure secure protection throughout the ascent.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
top rope friendly
sunny exposure
short pitch