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Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun: A Boulder Canyon Trad Adventure

Boulder, Colorado United States
dihedral
trad
runout
classic Boulder Canyon
single pitch
marginal protection
Length: 180 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lichenthrope offers a focused Boulder Canyon trad climb where classic dihedrals meet a choice of crux routes requiring mental grit and steady gear placement. Once a ground-up challenge, it now blends history with safer bolts, making it a notable experience for adventurous climbers."

Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun: A Boulder Canyon Trad Adventure

Tucked across from The Bihedral on Cascade Crag, Lichenthrope, also called Good Clean Fun, offers a compact yet memorable trad climb that blends straightforward technical climbing with an undercurrent of old-school adventure. The route begins with a welcoming left-facing dihedral, establishing an easy rhythm that encourages confident movement. As your hands sweep the textured rock, the climb shifts into a right-facing dihedral that sets the stage for a choice: push straight over a small roof with a crux move rated 5.10 R, where protection is sparse and commitment is key, or take a short rightward traverse followed by a careful climb back left, easing into a more protected line.

Above this point, the route ventures upward and right, potentially linking with the Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine finish—known today as Rain Check—or veering across slabs that demand precise footwork and a steady head. Marginal protection in these sections reminds you that this climb tests mental as well as physical grit. Ultimately, the line guides you beneath a small overlap or roof, challenging your ability to move fluidly and read the rock, before finishing with a traverse that rewards patience and smart gear placement. Whether tackling the bulge directly or weaving around it, Lichenthrope insists on deliberate movement and a solid rack featuring a range of cams from Aliens and wires up to #2½ Friends.

Anchoring at just 180 feet in length, this single-pitch climb is compact but packed with character. The rock’s texture invites a tactile connection while the occasional runout sections regain your focus and commitment. Descending is straightforward, with a 180-foot rappel from a sturdy tree or an exposed 3rd class+ downclimb along the buttress’s right side for those seeking an adventurous exit without ropes.

Historically, this climb held an aura of ground-up ascents and unbolted lines dating back to the 1980s, which added to its allure. However, since late 2009, route retrobolting has changed the dynamic, reducing the runout challenges and transforming the experience for some climbers into a more straightforward endeavor. Despite that, the route remains a solid showcase of Boulder Canyon’s granite features and classic movement sensations. Approach the climb with a mindset geared towards careful planning, solid trad skills, and an appreciation for the rock’s subtle appeals.

For those headed to Boulder, Colorado’s Cascade Crag area, this climb offers an engaging introduction to the granite walls and the local climbing culture. Make sure to equip a 60-meter rope and a well-rounded trad rack to navigate the varied pro demands safely. Early summer to early fall provides the best weather window, with mornings offering cool shade improving friction on the rock. Hydrate well, and prepare for a brief but committed effort that balances accessibly fun climbing with the need to respect its historical and technical roots.

Climber Safety

Runout sections above the initial dihedrals require cautious placement and calm nerves—fall potential is higher here. The rock quality is solid but stay aware of loose flakes near the small overlap. The rappel anchor replaced the original walk-off; ensure your 60m rope is sufficient and inspect the tree anchor before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length180 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy better friction on shaded sections.

Bring a full rack, focusing on small to medium cams due to varied crack sizes and runouts.

Practice managing exposure as several sections have marginal protection and require confidence.

Check weather carefully; wet granite can become slippery, especially near the small roof crux.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating indicates a moderate difficulty with a runout factor adding a psychological layer. While the moves themselves are manageable for intermediate climbers, the sparse protection over key sections demands strong route-reading and composure. Compared to local Boulder Canyon climbs, this route feels slightly stiffer because of its protection challenges and the crux roof moves.

Gear Requirements

Aliens, wires, Friends up to size 2 1/2 are essential for effective protection. A 60-meter rope is required for the rappel descent or lowering off the top anchors.

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Tags

dihedral
trad
runout
classic Boulder Canyon
single pitch
marginal protection