"A compact trad pitch carved into Lassen’s Kings Creek cliffs, Lichen Removal Project challenges climbers with gear Placements in a clean right-facing corner, topped by a reachy crux and generous jugs. Ideal for those seeking a remote, manageable trad outing in Northeastern California."
Rising from the rugged cliffs of Kings Creek in Lassen National Park, the Lichen Removal Project offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climbing experience perfect for those seeking to test their skills in a remote Northern California setting. At 80 feet, this single-pitch route climbs a distinctive low right-facing corner scored by a crack that runs for roughly 20 feet, demanding precise cam placements usually covered by #3 to #4 cams. The approach to the crux requires deft maneuvering into a layback corner, where reach becomes a challenge for climbers under six feet tall. The climb finishes atop solid jugs and inviting pockets, rewarding climbers with a sense of accomplishment against the backdrop of towering fir trees clinging to the cliff’s edge.
The climbing style is traditional with the option for a top-rope anchor at the summit fir, but be warned—the top-rope setup can feel sketchy, so it suits those comfortable with a bit of risk and solid anchor-building know-how. The rock quality remains reliable throughout but expect the occasional lichen patch to test your grip and encourage careful footwork. This quiet corner of Lassen is an off-the-beaten-track gem where nature asserts itself vividly; the pine-scented air and distant bird calls remind you that wilderness is never far away.
Access involves a moderate approach through forest trails before reaching the cliff base — ideal for morning starts when the wall catches the first light and temperatures are cooler. Climbing here calls for a minimal rack, focusing on midsize cams and nuts, with a sharp eye for gear placement as the crack isn’t always deep. Less trafficked and sitting quietly on the edge of Lassen’s vast landscape, the Lichen Removal Project is a perfect introduction to trad in this region or a peaceful afternoon challenge for experienced climbers wanting something less crowded than the park’s more popular walls.
Preparation is key: sturdy shoes, a full rack of cams up to #4, and enough water for the trek to the face will set you up for success. Pay attention to footwear; rough granite textures demand solid edging ability and reliable rubber. Weather can change quickly here, so pack layers and schedule climbs for clear days. The sound of wind threading through the firs above serves as a constant reminder that the mountain environment holds its own pace and presence. Whether you’re soloing the top rope or placing pro on the lead, this route blends practicality with that essential pulse of adventure that makes trad climbing so addictive.
Watch for lichen on certain holds and patchy protection spots near the crux layback—placement quality depends on carefully chosen cams. The top-rope anchor at the fir tree summit is secure if built properly but should be approached with caution due to limited fixed gear.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and gain good morning light on the wall.
Use footwear with sticky rubber for better grip on the granite’s rough textures.
Top-rope anchors are available from the summit fir but require careful building for safety.
Bring layers and hydration for the moderate approach hike through forested terrain.
A small to midsize rack is essential here—bring cams up to #4 and a moderate nut set. Protection centers on a 20-foot crack along the right-facing corner where solid placement is key for the crux layback section.
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