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Lézadomachos: A Clear Introduction to Discontinuous Crack Climbing

Mont-Laurier, Quebec Canada
discontinuous crack
trad
single pitch
finger crack
east-facing
fixed anchor
traverse crux
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lézadomachos
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lézadomachos offers a focused introduction to discontinuous crack climbing with a standout traverse crux. Located in Quebec’s Montagne d'Argent, it combines technical precision and smart gear placement over a single, engaging pitch."

Lézadomachos: A Clear Introduction to Discontinuous Crack Climbing

Lézadomachos offers a sharp and focused taste of crack climbing that demands both finesse and tactical gear placement. Set against the rugged backdrop of Montagne d'Argent in Quebec’s Laurentians, this single-pitch route stretches 75 feet, guiding climbers through a unique challenge where two distinct cracks refuse to align. The climb begins on a clean slab, inviting you to engage with a less-than-obvious finger crack on the right side. This initial section calls for precise holds and thoughtful placement, testing climbers’ technical grip and balance.

Above this, a small ledge provides a stable rest with solid gear options — a vital checkpoint before the climb’s key move: a lateral traverse from the right crack to a more generous left crack. This transition is the route’s crux, requiring deliberate body positioning and a steady hand to cross the gap safely. Once on the left crack, the terrain relaxes; easier climbing leads to the fixed anchor atop, offering a satisfying finish with wide views of the surrounding forested slopes.

The location’s natural features contribute to the experience. The granite here feels cool and textured, with enough friction to instill confidence yet requiring focus to avoid slips. The forest around carries the fresh fragrance of pine and maple, while occasional birdsong punctuates the silence, creating a grounded sense of place. This environment encourages climbers to slow down and read the rock thoroughly.

Practical setup includes gear placements up to Camalot #3 and some nuts; these ensure protection across the varying crack widths encountered. The fixed anchor facilitates easy top-rope belays or rappels, making it a suitable spot for climbers refining their crack techniques or warming up for nearby routes.

Planning your day here means accounting for approach time on moderate trails through mixed woodlands with subtle, but steady elevation gain. The route’s east-facing wall catches morning light, making early hours ideal for cooler conditions. As the sun climbs, the granite warms, enhancing friction but encouraging hydration and sun protection.

For those gearing up to tackle Lézadomachos, sturdy climbing shoes and a well-organized rack centered around cams and nuts will serve best. Keep an eye on weather as the area can see swift changes—dry conditions are essential for confident crack climbing. Finally, patience and attention to detail will transform this clear-cut line into a rewarding exercise in technique and movement, a course in crack climbing that is as straightforward as it is captivating.

Climber Safety

The key traverse between cracks requires confident footwork on relatively thin edges; slipping here could lead to a longer fall if protection is not well placed. Rock is stable but the discontinuity means protection placements are less continuous—place pro carefully before committing to the traverse.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch the east-facing wall in the morning light when the granite is cooler and more grippy.

Bring gloves for the traverse section to protect your hands from sharp edges during the lateral move.

Ensure your rack includes intermediate cam sizes to adequately protect the discontinuous cracks.

Check weather forecasts carefully—wet granite here becomes unusually slick and unsafe.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Lézadomachos leans towards the accessible end of traditional crack lines but demands careful movement for the critical traverse between cracks. The grade feels accurate with a noticeable crux that elevates effort compared to straightforward finger crack routes. Climbers familiar with nearby 5.8 cracks may find this a solid step up, especially given the transition’s technicality.

Gear Requirements

Bring camming devices up to Camalot #3 and a selection of nuts to cover the varying crack widths. Fixed anchor at the top simplifies belays and descent.

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Tags

discontinuous crack
trad
single pitch
finger crack
east-facing
fixed anchor
traverse crux