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L'Examen Final: A Bold Trad Test in Quebec's Charlevoix

Quebec City, Canada
crack climbing
multi-pitch
trad
offwidth
layback
dihedral
Quebec
all-day climb
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
L'Examen final
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"L’Examen Final tests climbers with five pitches of powerful crack and corner climbing in Quebec’s Charlevoix region. From flared finger cracks to a demanding dihedral and challenging offwidth finish, this classic trad route combines physical grit and technical skill amid stunning wilderness views."

L'Examen Final: A Bold Trad Test in Quebec's Charlevoix

L’Examen Final stands as a demanding five-pitch trad climb carved into the rugged cliffs of Charlevoix, just outside Quebec City. This route challenges climbers with its sustained crack systems, powerful laybacks, and an imposing dihedral that demands precise technique and endurance. From the first moves, your fingers settle into a flared finger crack that teaches efficiency before the climb morphs into a sequence of climbing that feels alive—corners that dare you to push harder, offwidths that test your resolve, and roof sections where strength pairs with boldness.

Pitch one opens with a 70-foot ramp leading into a flared finger crack. Though short, it serves as a sharp warm-up, firing the muscles that the remaining pitches will relentlessly challenge. The second pitch immediately raises the stakes: a 100-foot corner that often wears a thin veil of waterfall moisture transforms into an effervescent challenge when dry. The bottom portion may be damp, but climb-up leads you through a powerful layback past a roof to a comfortable belay ledge. This pitch is the route’s signature, demanding pump endurance and controlled breathing.

On pitch three, the route softens its rhythm but not its technicality, offering a finger crack and layback around a massive chockstone. Here, nature’s architecture forces you around a tree before surrendering you at another solid belay spot. The fourth pitch surges back with a 5.12a rating, as you stem up a daunting dihedral that appears to close in on you. It’s a dynamic climb where footwork and body positioning decide your success. Two bolts mark critical protection points, and a key blue TCU placement will secure you just before the traverse right to the anchor below a prominent arch.

The final pitch delivers a long 150-foot finger crack culminating in a wide, left-angling offwidth that tests more than just your physical strength. This last section demands focus and creative crack climbing techniques; it’s a satisfying conclusion that rewards the climber with a sense of accomplishment and a sweeping view over the wilderness surrounding Charlevoix.

Gear-wise, a double rack is essential, with emphasis on larger cams (#5 and #6) and a blue TCU for the key placement on pitch four. The anchors are solid, all bolted, but minimal: only one biner sits on the pitch four anchor, so efficiency at the belays is key. The approach is straightforward, with well-marked trails leading to the base, but climbers should prepare for a full day of climbing in a remote wilderness setting. Timing your ascent for dry conditions is crucial, especially since parts of pitch two can hold water after rain or longer wet seasons.

Charlevoix’s natural landscape looms large here, presenting a blend of dense forest approaching the cliff base and wide-open vistas from the summit ledges. The route demands respect, but it offers a prize for those ready to embrace its physical and mental challenges: a climbing experience rooted deeply in tradition and gritty exposure to raw rock. Whether you’re pushing into the 5.12a grade or refining your crack climbing technique, L’Examen Final delivers a climbing adventure infused with both practical challenge and a taste of northern wilderness spirit.

Climber Safety

Watch for wet rock on pitch two during or after rain—this corner can hold residual water making holds slippery. Anchors are solid but sparse; double-check placements before trusting them. The approach passes through forested terrain, which can be slippery when damp.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Check recent weather for water flow on pitch two’s corner to avoid slick conditions.

Bring sturdy crack-specific shoes and tape to protect your fingers on long finger cracks.

Start early to allow plenty of time for the full five-pitch climb and descent.

Approach trail is well-marked but expect a 30-minute hike through forested terrain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating on L’Examen Final fits tightly with its sustained nature and physical moves, particularly on the pump-heavy second and fourth pitches. Some might find the grade stiff, especially on the dihedral pitch where precise stemming and body tension are critical. Overall, the grade reflects a pure crack climbing challenge with a few crux sequences that reward clean technique more than raw power.

Gear Requirements

A double rack is recommended, including two #5 and two #6 cams, plus a blue TCU for a crucial placement on pitch four. Fixed anchors are bolted but minimalistic, with only one biner at the pitch four anchor.

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Tags

crack climbing
multi-pitch
trad
offwidth
layback
dihedral
Quebec
all-day climb