"Let It Bleed on Waco Wall serves up 40 feet of sharp, gritty rock climbing that tests finger strength and balance. This single-pitch sport route, nestled deep within the Angeles National Forest, challenges with its unique texture and demanding moves, earning a must-try status for precision climbers."
Let It Bleed is a sport climb that demands respect and precision on the sharp, gritty surface of Waco Wall within Texas Canyon. This climb pierces the quiet of Angeles National Forest with a single pitch of intense contact climbing, measuring 40 feet of finely honed difficulty. The feeling under your fingertips is almost abrasive—each hold made up of xenoliths that bite back if you’re careless. Unlike other routes nearby, here the rock features tiny, jagged inclusions that feel almost like gritstone, challenging your grip and stamina in a way few other climbs in this area do. As you start off using the incut holds just left of the first bolt, you'll find yourself quickly settling into a rhythm, pulling up onto sloping footholds that ask for clean footwork. The crux lies in matching a right-leaning sidepull before committing to a demanding three-finger pocket. The pocket isn’t just a hold; it’s a platform you stand in to clip the third bolt — a move that tests both balance and boldness.
Continuing upward, the sharp xenoliths keep you on alert. The rock’s texture demands fingertip strength and careful friction management, especially since the rounded arete next to the line feels too polished and inviting to trust. Whether you're sending this route on your first attempt or grinding through a second try, you’ll feel the burn deep in your fingertips as you work your way to the chain anchor, which shares a station with the nearby route Rhinestone Cowboy.
Access to Waco Wall places you deep in Angeles National Forest, roughly 34.51406 latitude and -118.40158 longitude, offering a climb away from crowds with the quiet of dense chaparral hills. The approach to this wall involves negotiating a moderately rocky trail through dry brush, which takes about 20 minutes from the main parking areas of Texas Canyon. Arrive early or later in the day to avoid direct sun exposure on the wall, as the southern aspect heats up quickly under the California sun, especially during summer months.
Gear up with three quickdraws for the bolts and be prepared for sharp rock that rewards sticky rubber and careful hand placements. Gloves aren’t practical here, as you’ll need skin-on-rock feel to manage the incut holds and pocket. Bring plenty of water and a basic first aid kit, since the sharp xenoliths can easily bruise or cut if control slips, making careful climbing a must. While only 40 feet, Let It Bleed packs enough technical moves and tactile demands to satisfy climbers looking for a punchy 5.10a test that feels both raw and controlled.
Waco Wall’s setting in the Angeles National Forest means you’re climbing in a protected natural area with little traffic and solid overhead protection. The preserved wild surroundings push you into direct contact with nature’s raw edges, where every hold seems alive. Descending is straightforward with a single rappel down the chain anchors, so double-check your rappel set-up and keep ropes clear of abrasive rock edges.
For those drawn to climbs that challenge their grip and precision on textured rock, Let It Bleed offers a gritty escape in southern California’s rugged hills. It’s a route that will sharpen your focus and leave your fingertips humming — a clear reminder that good climbing requires both boldness and finesse.
Watch for sharp xenoliths that can easily abrade skin or cause cuts—maintain controlled movements, especially around the three-finger pocket and when approaching the chain anchor. The approach trail also involves loose, rocky terrain, so wear appropriate footwear and stay alert.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to maximize friction on sharp xenoliths.
Avoid grabbing the rounded arete; trust the friction on the pocket holds instead.
Start early or late to avoid intense sun exposure on this south-facing wall.
Bring a small first aid kit due to the risk of cuts from sharp rock edges.
The route is protected by three bolts and ends at a chain anchor shared with Rhinestone Cowboy. Quickdraws and a rope long enough for a 40-foot rappel will cover your needs safely.
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