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Lest You Be Judged: A Compact Boulder Canyon Trad Climb

Boulder, Colorado United States
crack climbing
single pitch
technical start
north east face
boulder canyon
traditional gear
moderate length
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lest You Be Judged
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A tight 50-foot trad climb on Boulder Canyon's Cenotaph Spire, Lest You Be Judged challenges climbers with precise crack technique and modest reach demands. Ideal for those wanting focused protection and a quick, memorable ascent amid Colorado’s alpine beauty."

Lest You Be Judged: A Compact Boulder Canyon Trad Climb

Lest You Be Judged stands as a sharply focused, single-pitch trad route carved into the heart of Boulder Canyon’s iconic Cenotaph Spire. Although modest in length at 50 feet, this climb offers a punch of technical variety balanced by the surrounding silent presence of Colorado’s rugged granite landscape. The crux is front-loaded — the first moves demand a confident reach and careful footwork, especially challenging for climbers below average height. A spotter’s steady hand becomes essential on the initial vertical section where small flakes and delicate edges arise underfoot, pressing climbers into a nuanced dance with the stone. Once past this bottleneck, the route opens to a rhythm of well-protected jams and manageable crimps on natural flakes, navigating a slight depression in the wall that beckons side-to-side movement.

Protection here is straightforward yet requires attention: a set of cams ranging from 0.5 to 3 inches, with doubles in 1 to 2 inches, will cover all placements, including solid opportunities on two horizontal cracks and safe placements near the top. Climbers will find that 3-inch cams are particularly handy approaching the upper sections, where gear can be comfortably placed before topping out. At the summit, the stone quiets again, inviting a pause to absorb the wide-angle views that stretch east along the spire’s ridge — a perfect moment to soak in the surrounding Boulder Canyon wilderness before the descent.

Approach is a brief but engaging hike. From the trailhead near Boulder, climbers ascend through forested switchbacks, the scent of pine and rock dust sharpening the senses, to reach the base of Cenotaph Spire within 30 minutes. The trail terrain remains solid though occasionally uneven, requiring sturdy footwear and mindful steps to avoid loose scree. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon ensures softer light and cooler granite, as the route’s northeast-facing wall captures the sun during midday, potentially warming holds but also increasing surface glare.

Lest You Be Judged offers a neat mix of straightforward crack climbing and subtle technical challenges that reward preparation and respect for the rock’s personality. This route is a fitting choice for trad climbers eager to practice precise placement and movement without the complication of multi-pitch logistics. Whether this is your introduction to Boulder Canyon or a quick afternoon mission, the climb balances approachability with an undeniable spirit of adventure wrapped in firm protection and self-reliant tactics.

Climber Safety

The opening moves require a spotter to avoid solo falls during the initial no-gear section on small flakes. Climbers should also watch for loose rock near the top and be cautious on the walk-off spine, which can have uneven footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Use a spotter for the delicate first moves to ensure safe body positioning.

Target early morning climbs to avoid direct sun on the northeast wall.

Wear shoes with precise edging for tip-toeing on small flakes.

Prepare for a 30-minute approach through uneven but well-marked forest trails.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 grade reflects a route that sits comfortably for climbers around 5'11", but shrinks a bit for shorter climbers who may find the initial reach moves more demanding. Overall, the grade feels fair, with the crux front-loaded in a short vertical section. Compared to other Boulder Canyon routes, 'Lest You Be Judged' is relatively straightforward but keeps you honest with its early beta and precise gear placements.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of cams from 0.5 to 3 inches, with doubles in sizes 1 and 2 inches. Expect secure placements on horizontal cracks, with some extra care needed in the initial vertical section. 3-inch cams are highly recommended near the top.

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Tags

crack climbing
single pitch
technical start
north east face
boulder canyon
traditional gear
moderate length