HomeClimbingL'envers du nez

L'envers du nez: A Classic Quebec Trad Climb with a Subtle Edge

Val-David, Quebec Canada
trad gear
slab climbing
overhang
single pitch
Laurentians
medium protection
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
L'envers du nez
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"L'envers du nez delivers a precise 65-foot slab climb perched atop a vertical wall with a defining overhang. Perfect for trad climbers seeking gentle challenges framed by quiet Laurentian forests."

L'envers du nez: A Classic Quebec Trad Climb with a Subtle Edge

Set against the rugged backdrop of the Laurentian forest near Val-David, Quebec, L'envers du nez offers a modest yet rewarding trad climbing experience that invites both novices and seasoned climbers to engage with natural rock in a thoughtful way. This single-pitch route spans 65 feet on a slab perched above a short, vertical wall capped by a distinctive overhang—a feature that challenges your route-finding skills and commitment. Climbers can begin their ascent from either Le Nez or L'Oubliée, paths that wind through a quiet woodland filled with the scents of pine and the steady hum of wildlife.

The climbing is straightforward but requires focus, with a 5.4 rating making it approachable for those refining their trad techniques. Protection is primarily traditional gear placements up to bolted anchors, enabling a secure yet engaging lead. The slab demands delicate footwork and balance rather than brute strength, encouraging an intimate conversation between climber and stone. The quiet forest setting enhances this connection, as the rustle of leaves and the distant calls of birds forge an immersive atmosphere.

Approaching L'envers du nez involves a manageable hike through mixed terrain, weaving past mossy roots and rocky outcrops. The route is tucked within a region known for its scenic diversity, offering a calm yet invigorating escape from busier climbing hubs. Its length and style make it an excellent choice for a half-day outing, perfect for those transitioning from sport routes to traditional lines.

Plan to bring standard trad rack gear with cams and nuts sized for medium cracks, alongside climbing shoes that perform well on slab friction. Midweek visits mean fewer crowds and a more contemplative experience, while early morning starts clear the wall of lingering moisture. Although the grade is accessible, the subtle roof at the top requires climbers to conserve energy and stay focused on technique. A firm hand on protection placements ensures confidence as the slab inclines gradually toward the anchors.

The descent is straightforward via rappel from well-established anchors. However, climbers should watch for loose rock near the belay station and maintain situational awareness on the rappel line. Weather can shift unexpectedly in the Laurentians, so a layered approach to clothing and hydration can keep you comfortable throughout the climb and hike.

Ultimately, L'envers du nez is less about dramatic moves and more about embracing the rhythm of traditional climbing on quiet Quebec slabs. It balances accessible challenge with an evocative natural setting that rewards patience and respect for the rock. Whether you’re honing trad skills or simply seeking a peaceful climb among cool pines, this route offers a grounded and satisfying outdoor adventure.

Climber Safety

The approach includes some uneven terrain with potential loose rock near the anchors. Vigilance during the descent is important, and ensure your gear is well-placed as the slab’s friction requires grounded trust in your protection.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid damp rock on the slab surface.

Bring a full trad rack with emphasis on medium-sized gear.

Check weather forecasts; sudden shifts occur often in the Laurentians.

Rappel carefully and watch for loose rock near the anchor zone.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.4
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.4, this climb offers a moderate challenge that leans heavily on technical footwork and steady balance. The grade feels true to value, though the overhang near the top adds a focused crux that demands careful movement but does not spike the difficulty dramatically. It compares well to other accessible trad slabs in the region, serving as a solid confidence-builder for newer trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

Traditional protection is essential here, with medium-sized cams and nuts recommended to secure the slab and vertical sections. The route is protected up to fixed anchors bolted at the top.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of L'envers du nez and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad gear
slab climbing
overhang
single pitch
Laurentians
medium protection