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Left Untch Crack: A Classic Trad Challenge in the San Bernardino Mountains

Running Springs, California United States
wide crack
right-facing corner
bolted anchors
gear belay
single pitch
San Bernardino
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Left Untch Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Left Untch Crack is a 70-foot trad climb featuring a broad right-facing corner with a tactical finish on bolted anchors. Perfect for climbers who value solid crack climbing and flexible top-out options, this route offers a rewarding challenge tucked high in the San Bernardino Mountains."

Left Untch Crack: A Classic Trad Challenge in the San Bernardino Mountains

Left Untch Crack offers climbers a distinctive opportunity to engage with a broad crack system carved into the rugged face of Untch Rock. This single-pitch, 70-foot trad line demands both respect and thoughtful gear selection, as you follow a right-facing corner that angles left near the top before navigating up and right to secure bolted anchors. The route’s character lies in its blend of sustained crack climbing and a tactical finish that allows for a choice between a gear belay or a traverse to bolted anchors—an ideal setup for climbers who appreciate options when topping out.

Approaching Left Untch Crack, you will feel the solid presence of the San Bernardino Mountains, where the air is often cooling and fresh, carrying hints of pine and the subtle buzz of distant wildlife. The rock here is mostly sound, offering edges and features that challenge climbers without veering into overly technical territory. Protection placements vary, requiring gear up to four inches to shield yourself comfortably as you ascend the wide, right-facing crack. The crack’s size calls for a versatile rack and some forethought—small friends transition to overlapped cams, while larger pieces provide a secure anchor point.

The approach to this climb is straightforward for those familiar with the Green Valley Lake area near Running Springs, California. A short hike through mixed forest terrain leads you directly to the base of Untch Rock. The trail is well-marked but can be uneven in spots, with some loose stones underfoot. Plan roughly 20 to 30 minutes from the parking area, and consider starting early to avoid the heat that can build up in the afternoon.

Expect to encounter steady friction on the rock face, with the crack inviting careful hand jams and controlled foot placements. The top-out requires attention to route-finding: climbers can either build a secure gear belay on the ledge or negotiate a modest traverse to reach the bolted anchors, offering flexibility depending on your party’s comfort level and equipment preferences. This feature adds a practical aspect to the ascent, encouraging climbers to adapt their finishing moves to the conditions and personal style.

The area itself holds a rugged charm—its elevation affords sweeping views of the surrounding valleys and peaks, enriching the sense of venture without overwhelming novices who come for an accessible yet rewarding trad experience. Timing your climb is key; morning or late afternoon climbs provide cooler temperatures and softer light on the rock face. Avoid mid-day sun, which can sap your energy and dry out skin and hands.

Overall, Left Untch Crack suits climbers seeking a solid 5.8 trad challenge in a beautiful, less crowded section of the San Bernardino Mountains. Its varied protection, combined with engaging crack moves and an adaptable finish, make it a worthy addition to any Southern California climbing itinerary. Be sure to bring a full rack including larger cams, wear shoes with good edging capability, and pack plenty of water to counteract the dry mountain air. Whether you're coming for a quick warm-up or a focused climb, Left Untch Crack delivers both adventure and approachable complexity on a distinctive granite face.

Climber Safety

While the rock quality is generally reliable, loose stones can be present on the approach trail and around the climb’s base. The top-out involves a narrow ledge with varied anchor options—double-check all placements and consider the traverse carefully before committing to the bolted anchors. Weather can shift quickly, so be cautious of wet surfaces and avoid climbing after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on the rock face.

Bring a variety of cam sizes up to 4 inches for optimal protection.

Consider walking off after the climb if you prefer to avoid rappelling.

Check weather and avoid wet or slippery conditions on the crack.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Left Untch Crack sits comfortably within moderate trad climbing difficulty. The wide crack offers consistent protection opportunities, but the right-facing corner with a left exit near the top demands careful footwork and route awareness. The rating feels fair; it’s accessible but with a crux where the crack evolves and the positioning tightens slightly, requiring precision. Compared to nearby trad routes, it is less technical than advanced lines but still engaging enough to test solid crack skills.

Gear Requirements

A complete rack up to 4 inches is needed to protect the wide crack system. The route features bolted anchors, allowing either a gear belay atop the crack or a short traverse to fixed points for descent.

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Tags

wide crack
right-facing corner
bolted anchors
gear belay
single pitch
San Bernardino