"Left Slab Route 3 offers a manageable trad and top rope challenge on a clean quartzite face at Horse Flats. With fun features like a layback start and an engaging undercling traverse, it’s an ideal climb for newcomers and seasoned climbers looking for straightforward protection and solid movement."
Left Slab Route 3 at Horse Flats offers a refreshing twist on the classic Ant Line climb, tailored for those seeking a moderately challenging trad and top rope experience within the Angeles National Forest. The approach delivers an immediate sense of clarity—the wall’s clean quartzite face rises smoothly, inviting climbers to engage its subtle features without the intimidation of steeper terrain. Starting with a layback move along the right edge, this route rewards climbers who resist the temptation to slip onto the slab, adding a touch of playful commitment to the start. The sequence transitions into straightforward face climbing and a narrow chimney section, where the rock’s texture comes alive under your fingertips, a tactile whisper guiding your next step.
Halfway up, the route takes an engaging turn with an undercling traverse that tests both balance and control. The holds here demand a steady grip, as the rock seems to dare you forward with a slight outward push. Following this, the climb culminates in a climb up a prominent flake that offers solid hand and foot placements, closing the 50-foot pitch with satisfying movement that feels earned but accessible.
Protection is straightforward yet strategic. Two bolts at the top make it an ideal candidate for top roping, especially for newer climbers looking to build confidence on clean trad terrain. If you prefer to lead, bringing a standard rack with a selection of wider cams ensures good coverage, especially for protecting the chimney and traverse sections where the rock opens up more. The placement opportunities reward thoughtful gear choices, encouraging a careful approach without the pressure of excessive complexity.
The setting at Horse Flats offers a crisp mountain atmosphere—the pine-scented air mingles with the warmth of filtered sunlight, punctuated by occasional calls of local birds and the rustle of leaves stirring in the breeze. This climb sits comfortably within the Los Angeles Basin’s reach, a manageable escape from urban buzz but with enough isolation to feel like a real outdoor outing.
Gear up with sturdy climbing shoes that provide good friction for the slick slab portions and gloves if chimney climbing feels abrasive on your skin. Hydration is key; a short approach means you can carry less, but the dry air calls for steady water intake. Early morning climbs benefit from cooler rock and lighter crowds, while midday sun may bake exposed sections, making timing an important consideration.
Whether you’re honing trad skills or just wanting a solid top rope route that mixes movement with manageable challenges, Left Slab Route 3 delivers an engaging day out. This route’s blend of fun moves, useful protection, and approachable grading makes it a smart pick for climbers ready to step up from beginner terrain or add variety to their Horse Flats session.
Though protection is generally solid, placements in the chimney and flake sections need careful attention to ensure security. The slab surfaces can become slick when wet or dusty, so approach and climb cautiously during or after precipitation. Also, be mindful of loose rock near the flake at the top, testing holds before weighting them fully.
Start early to enjoy cooler rock and lighter crowds on the wall.
Bring climbing shoes with solid friction for the slab moves.
Hydrate thoroughly—dry mountain air can be deceptively dehydrating.
Use gloves or tape when chimneying to protect your hands from abrasion.
The route is protected by two bolts at the top, making it well suited for top rope setups. For leading, climbers should carry a standard trad rack including some wide cams to secure placements in the chimney and flake sections effectively.
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