"Left Out (aka Lost Crack) presents a clean, straightforward crack climb on Lumpy Ridge’s East Face. Perfect for trad climbers looking to sharpen their technique on a single-pitch, 5.9 route with easy access and rewarding alpine views."
Left Out, known also as Lost Crack, offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climbing experience on Lumpy Ridge’s rugged East Face. Situated just west of the Renaissance Wall Canyon entrance, this route invites climbers to navigate a clean, continuously inviting crack before stepping right into a slightly brushy dihedral leading to the top of a smooth slab. The climb stretches 125 feet over a single pitch, making it ideal for climbers seeking a solid introduction to the area’s granite without the complications of multipitch logistics.
The route begins with a well-defined crack system cutting through a minor overlap, providing secure hand and finger jams that require finesse and steady footwork. As you ascend, the rock feels deliberately sculpted—granite’s sharp edges daring you to commit. Once the crack fades, a rightward move into a dihedral awaits. This part is a bit less polished, with patches of moss and dirt that remind you this line treads lightly on the natural contours of the cliff rather than imposing itself. The final stretch brings you to a large ledge system crowned by expansive views of Estes Park Valley, where alpine air mingles with the scent of pine and the distant murmur of mountain wildlife.
Protection on Left Out requires a full rack of nuts and cams up to 3 inches, ensuring versatile gear placements in the crack and sections of flaring dihedral. A pro and single bolt anchor at around 80 feet is shared with the adjacent "Shinbuster" route, offering a secure belay position or an option to continue climbing left and up for an additional 40 feet to reach the top of a spacious ledge. From there, a traverse south leads into the Bookmark Pinnacle chimney, a perfect link for those extending their climbing day.
Approach access is straightforward, following established trails from the Lumpy Ridge parking area near Estes Park. The hike involves moderate elevation gain through open forest and rocky terrain, taking approximately 30 to 45 minutes to reach the base. GPS coordinates mark the entry point firmly, making navigation uncomplicated even for those new to the area.
For climbers planning their day, timing is key: the east-facing wall catches morning sun, warming the rock quickly and reducing the chill that mountain mornings often bring. Summer and early fall offer the most stable weather windows, while shoulder seasons can introduce slick rock and sporadic moisture that complicate climbing safety. Footwear with sticky rubber and a sturdy approach shoe for the hike will enhance both comfort and grip.
Left Out’s single pitch design, moderate 5.9 rating, and accessible protection make it a favorite for those honing crack climbing technique or seeking a rewarding alpine outing with panoramic views. While not a high-volume route, its rugged charm and peaceful setting reward climbers who come prepared to engage directly with Lumpy Ridge’s natural granite character.
Practical advice: leave space for sunlight in early starts, pack extra water for the moderately exposed approach, and watch for the subtle transition from the clean crack to the brushy dihedral. The climb’s character blends precision jamming skills with straightforward route-finding, rewarding attention to detail with smooth movement and a satisfying finish at the ledge. Whether you’re arriving from nearby Estes Park or passing through Colorado’s Front Range, Left Out stands as a compelling choice for a classic trad climb immersed in the mountain’s bold granite landscape.
Stay vigilant as the dihedral section can be a little dirty and slippery; check gear placements carefully and be prepared for some loose debris near the top. The approach trail is moderate but can get slick when wet, so use caution on footing.
Start early to benefit from morning sun warming the east-facing wall.
Pack extra water for the moderate hike-in through open forest terrain.
Wear sticky rubber for crack jams and sturdy shoes for the approach trail.
Check weather forecasts—rock may be slick during shoulder seasons.
A full rack of nuts and cams up to 3" is needed to protect the clean crack and the slightly brushy dihedral. The established anchor at 80 feet, shared with the 'Shinbuster' route, includes a pro and a bolt. Experienced trad climbers can bypass this and continue climbing left for another 40 feet to a large ledge.
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