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Left Facet at The Prism: A Classic Trad and Alpine Challenge in Sequoia & Kings Canyon

Three Rivers, California United States
granite
trad
multi-pitch
alpine
slab
ridge descent
cracks
5.10a
exposed
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
13
Location
Left Facet
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Left Facet on The Prism challenges climbers with 13 pitches of technical traditional climbing on varied granite slabs and cracks, culminating in a pointed summit block. Its alpine setting offers both demanding moves and an extended descent along a rugged ridge."

Left Facet at The Prism: A Classic Trad and Alpine Challenge in Sequoia & Kings Canyon

The Left Facet route on The Prism rises sharply along the rugged skyline in Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park, delivering a climb that balances technical slab moves with exposed alpine adventure. Starting low on the tower’s base, the path winds through sculpted slabs, clean cracks, and narrow runnels that test your footwork and crack skills. As you gain elevation, the rock steepens, demanding careful hand placements and confident movement on the climber’s right edge of the face. The final summit block stands like a pointed guardian, a steep obstacle that crowns the ascent and offers commanding views over the wild, forested valleys below.

Approaching the climb, expect a blend of delicate slab climbing where edge control is key, combined with more sustained, vertical pitches requiring solid traditional protection proficiency. Unlike straightforward sport routes, this climb relies on gear you'll place yourself, threading cams and nuts into seams and pockets carefully—the quality of the rock here lets you trust placements but watch for occasional friable spots.

Above the summit, the adventure extends beyond just topping out. A sequence of four more pitches pushes climbers along a narrow ridge where careful downclimbing and traversing, mostly rated up to 5.8, guides your descent. This section is not just a simple walk-off; it demands attention and moderate climbing skill, making sure your route-finding and steady balance stay sharp even after the climb’s physical demands.

The area itself lies within the wild heart of the Sierra Nevada, with cool pine forests ringing the base and clear skies opening up as you rise. The air sharpens—dry, pine-scented, seasoned with the faint whistle of wind through granite cracks. Early summer offers stable weather, while spring snowmelt can leave approaches muddy and the rock slick in places. Footwear with solid grip and boots or shoes that handle talus are recommended for the approach and descent.

From a practical standpoint, the approach involves a moderate trek through forested trails and boulder fields, typically taking a couple of hours depending on your start point. Navigating to the base requires attention to map details and possibly GPS coordinates, as signage can be sparse. Bring enough water since the area is remote and consider timing your climb early in the day to avoid afternoon heat and to tackle the slab pitches with firm, cool rock.

While the climb holds a demanding rating of 5.10a R, the "R" warns of some riskier sections where falls could be serious due to sparse protection. Make sure your traditional rack is comprehensive, including smaller cams for thin cracks and midsize protection for larger seams. The rock quality is generally excellent; however, vigilance for fragile, loose flakes is necessary, especially after storms.

In all, Left Facet offers a textured alpine experience rooted in the classic granite challenges of the Sierra Nevada. It rewards climbers who come prepared, bring sharp technical skills, and relish the quiet potency of a route that marries sustained climbing with a wild, high-country backdrop. The descent ridge ensures the adventure doesn’t stop at the summit — it demands thought, steady hands, and reverence for the mountain’s natural layout. This climb is not merely a physical test; it’s a conversation with the rock and the altitude around it.

Climber Safety

Watch for fragile rock on upper slab sections and approach descent with care—the ridge features loose blocks and exposure that require steady footing and deliberate movement.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches13
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy firm rock and avoid afternoon heat on slabs.

Bring water and plan for a two-plus hour approach through uneven terrain.

Check weather trends; avoid climbing during or after rain to prevent loose rock hazards.

Descend via the ridge slowly—some sections require downclimbing skill and vigilance.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a R rating signals a climb that demands both technique and respect for risk. Protection can be sparse in sections, making runouts feel bold though the crux moves rely on solid footwork and crack climbing. Compared to other Sierra alpine routes, Left Facet is moderately stiff but well within reach for climbers confident in placing gear and managing exposure.

Gear Requirements

Complete traditional rack required with emphasis on small to medium cams for cracks and seams; no fixed gear on route except natural placements. Prepare for placements that need careful evaluation, especially on upper slabs.

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Tags

granite
trad
multi-pitch
alpine
slab
ridge descent
cracks
5.10a
exposed