"Left End Corners offers a classic three-pitch trad climb along the Second Buttress in Taylor Canyon. With a 5.8 crux and solid gear placements, it balances accessible climbing with rewarding exposure and scenic views in Gunnison’s quiet canyon walls."
Left End Corners offers a compelling traditional climb on the far left flank of Second Buttress, set within the rugged cliffs of Taylor Canyon near Gunnison, Colorado. This three-pitch route presents a perfect blend of straightforward climbing and subtle technical challenges that keep the ascent engaging without overwhelming less experienced climbers. The 5.8 rating reflects the selected line’s crux moves, though a 5.6 variation is available on pitch two for those seeking a slightly easier rhythm.
Your journey begins at the base of the cliff where the rock feels solid and textured, giving your fingers reliable holds for the first 50 feet. This initial pitch is an accessible warm-up, climbing up to a roomy ledge under a quiet sky, where the canyon air shifts with a gentle breeze. The ledge offers an excellent spot to pause and gather energy before moving into the more intricate second pitch.
Pitch two steers you right to a clean, inviting crack system. The hardest moves are near the start here, requiring a steady hand and careful footwork on holds rated around 5.7. Higher up, the crack widens, offering sustained sequences along the face’s edge with excellent protection placements that give both confidence and security. The belay station sits on a substantial ledge approximately 100 feet up, where views open to the folded canyon walls and distant pine-clad ridges.
The final pitch shifts focus to a mixed terrain that begins with an easy gully heading left, before pushing right towards the Resom Dihedral, the route’s defining corner feature. This section demands attention, with a distinct crux as you maneuver along a vertical wall before topping out. Throughout the climb, the rock remains consistent, gritty, and sound — a trusted partner on your upward push.
Second Buttress itself offers a compelling playground for climbers who desire both adventure and straightforward protection; a standard rack suffices here, with placements that feel intuitive even for those still mastering gear selection. The area’s remoteness adds to the experience — expect tranquil surroundings that allow the natural sounds of the canyon to become part of your climb’s soundtrack.
Allow 45 minutes to approach along a rugged trail that twists through open forest and stone fields, rising gently towards the cliff base. Optimal climbing conditions occur in spring and fall when daytime temperatures invite exploration without excessive heat, and early morning starts are rewarding with soft light and cool rock surfaces.
Descent involves a careful downclimb or a double rope rappel from established anchors. Keep an eye on anchor stability and plan accordingly, especially in cooler months when moisture might make holds slippery. Local climbers recommend sturdy footwear with solid tread for both approach and descent.
All in all, Left End Corners stands as a satisfying introduction to traditional multi-pitch climbing in the Gunnison area, delivering scenic views, manageable challenges, and the quiet solitude that makes Taylor Canyon a cherished escape for climbers ready to test their skills amid Colorado’s impressive geological features.
Watch for loose rock near the approach trail and remain cautious on the final rappel as weathered anchors can affect stability. The final pitch’s exposed corner requires steady footing and awareness of shifting holds, especially after rain or moisture.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and get cooler rock conditions.
Bring a double rope for safer rappel descents from the top anchors.
Wear solid-soled climbing shoes with good edging capability.
Stay right on pitch two’s crack for the 5.8 line; the left variation drops to 5.6 if preferred.
A standard rack covers all protection needs for this route. Gear placements are generally straightforward with good variety, allowing for safe anchoring and comfortable resting spots.
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