"Left Crack offers a compact yet technical trad climb on Linger Longer Rock’s rugged flank. This 105-foot single pitch mixes sustained crack jamming with gritty face moves, all underscored by sparse protection and stunning canyon views."
Left Crack stands as a bold challenge carved into Linger Longer Rock, poised amid the soaring cliffs of Big Thompson Canyon in Colorado’s Estes Park Valley. The climb begins with a gritty invitation: a winding crack on the rock’s left flank that demands steady hands and precise footwork. About 15 feet into the ascent, the crux arrives—a tricky jam where technique and patience converge. Beyond this, the crack fades into a rough, coarse face, requiring climbers to transition seamlessly from crack climbing to face tactics as they ascend the remaining sixty feet. The wall offers rugged textures that speak to the earth’s raw power, while the canyon below stretches out with rugged pine forests and the whisper of distant wind. Rappelling is straightforward from a fixed set of chain anchors at the summit, but the climb’s rating of 5.9 R warns that protection is limited and placements are often uncertain. This gear challenge ups the intensity, urging climbers to bring thoughtful rack selections, particularly pieces up to 1 1/2 inches, as well as a readiness for some historic hardware—namely, a lone, weathered Stubai piton set halfway up.
This route is an accessible yet demanding single-pitch that calls for confidence on cracks and faces alike, offering a glimpse into the remote, wild character of one of Colorado’s most renowned climbing hubs. The approach is straightforward, with a brief trek to the base through dry, sunlit terrain punctuated by sturdy pines. Expect a climb that blends the satisfaction of well-earned moves with a striking view of Big Thompson Canyon’s rugged sweep. Technical precision, smart gear choices, and an eye for subtle features will make Left Crack a memorable line on any seasoned trad climber’s list.
The route’s protection is uneven, with some difficult-to-place sections and one aged piton that shouldn’t be relied on alone. Climbers should prepare for runouts and double rope rappel carefully from the chain anchors to avoid rope damage or gear failure. Fall potential requires a cool head and precise gear placement.
Bring a full range of cams up to 1 1/2 inch for sparse placements.
Approach early in the day to beat afternoon sun and heat on the face.
Check your rappel setup thoroughly; chains are solid but must be doubled rope rappelled.
Wear shoes with good edging capability for the coarse, face climbing above the crack.
Gear up to 1 1/2 inches is essential here, with protection noticeably spotty. There’s an old Stubai piton midway that adds a vintage touch, but your best safety comes from careful placement of cams and nuts. Two-rope rap off reliable chain anchors tops out the descent.
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