HomeClimbingLeft Bandana Crack

Left Bandana Crack: A Classic Trad Line in Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Big Bear Lake, California United States
wide crack
flared crack
single pitch
solid protection
bolted anchor
traditional
moderate 5.8
granite
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Left Bandana Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compelling trad climb in Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, Left Bandana Crack challenges climbers with a wide, left-slanting crack that tightens near its top. Offering solid protection and a bolted anchor, it’s an excellent route for those seeking classic crack climbing in a stunning mountain setting."

Left Bandana Crack: A Classic Trad Line in Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Left Bandana Crack offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climbing experience carved into the rugged granite of Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. The route follows a distinct left-leaning wide crack set in a subtly flared corner, inviting climbers to test their hand and finger jams as the crack narrows near the top. This single-pitch climb, stretching roughly 50 feet, strikes a perfect balance for those seeking classic crack climbing without overwhelming technical demands.

From the base, the crack appears as a bold line etched into the rock face, catching the light and promising solid placements throughout. The flared section on the lower half provides opportunities to slide sizable gear, while higher up, more delicate placements keep climbers engaged and focused. The pace here is steady but purposeful—there’s room to breathe between moves, yet the narrowing crack requires thoughtful footwork and body positioning.

Protection is generous to 4 inches, complemented by a bolted rap anchor shared with the adjacent Short Circuit route, making descent safe and simple. This reliable gear setup makes it ideal for trad climbers refining their crack skills or those looking for a solid moderate climb with dependable anchors.

The location within the San Bernardino Mountains places this climb in a striking outdoor setting, where broad views from the approach trail reward adventurers before the climb even begins. The rock feels solid and offers the kind of textured friction that inspired confidence, even amid the occasional dust and pine needles brought by the surrounding forest.

Approaching the route involves a short hike on well-marked trails weaving through granite outcrops and open pinyon pine groves, typically taking 15 to 20 minutes from the nearest access point. Early morning climbs benefit from cooler temperatures and dappled sunlight, while afternoons offer warmer conditions with fewer crowds. Mid-spring through fall delivers the best weather window, avoiding the heat peaks or colder winter snaps common to California's inland mountains.

For gear, climbers should pack a standard rack up to 4 inches with a good fit of cams and nuts to manage the flared lower crack and the tightening section above. The anchor is fixed, providing reassurance as you set up your rap back to the ground. Footwear with sticky rubber is a must to negotiate the granite slopes and small footholds that accompany the crack’s narrowing.

Local insight suggests being mindful of loose debris near the base and watching earlier morning sun angles, which can cause slippery granite patches from overnight moisture. The route’s 5.8 rating sits in a friendly difficulty zone—readily accessible to intermediate climbers though the wide crack flare will challenge novices to refine placement and technique.

This route shares its upper anchors with Short Circuit, a nearby climb offering a variation in style and challenge. Together, these climbs provide a compact introduction to traditional crack climbing within the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, framed by the broader San Bernardino wilderness that guards these granite walls. Climbers can descend via rap or carefully downclimb the lower slabs, but caution on loose rocks near the base is advised.

Ultimately, Left Bandana Crack rewards those who seek a straightforward, classic crack line with solid gear opportunities and stunning mountain surroundings. It’s a reliable choice for a morning climb that mixes practical trad skills with the refreshment of forest air and granite underfoot. Whether refining crack techniques or chasing a clean moderate line, this route stands ready to test your finesse in a quiet corner of California’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Loose debris near the base can create slipping hazards; assess all footholds and handholds carefully, especially in damp morning conditions. The descent rappel shares a fixed anchor—double-check gear and set your rappel before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail takes 15-20 minutes; well-marked through pine groves and granite patches.

Morning climbs offer cooler temps and better friction; afternoons are warmer but drier.

Watch for loose rocks at the base; test holds before trusting them.

Use sticky rubber shoes for edging in the narrowing crack section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels fair and accessible, with a smooth flow through the wide crack and a manageable crux where the crack narrows. It’s approachable for intermediate trad climbers looking to hone crack skills without overly stiff moves. Compared to nearby routes like Short Circuit, it offers a more sustained crack climbing experience with fewer technical complications.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to 4 inches for wide crack placements; fixed bolted anchor for rappelling shared with Short Circuit.

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Tags

wide crack
flared crack
single pitch
solid protection
bolted anchor
traditional
moderate 5.8
granite