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Left-angling Crack at Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
roof traverse
slab
sparsely protected
loose ledge
single pitch
trad
Boulder Canyon
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Left-angling Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Left-angling Crack offers an engaging single-pitch trad climb tucked behind an aspen in Boulder Canyon. This route features delicate finger cracks, a subtle roof traverse, and a sparsely protected finish on a steep slab, perfect for climbers seeking precise gear placement and steady movement."

Left-angling Crack at Boulder Canyon

Hidden within the rugged expanse of Boulder Canyon, the Left-angling Crack presents an inviting test for trad climbers craving a compact but compelling challenge. This single-pitch route unfolds behind a modest aspen tree, its pale trunk a natural signpost greets you just off the approach path to the nearby arete. The climb begins on a narrow finger crack, ascending directly to a small ledge tucked beneath a roof that offers a welcome moment of respite. From here, the climb veers left, following the crack as it arcs gently across a low-angle slab. The crack slowly thins and fades into a seam that fades into the slab’s face, requiring a controlled runout of roughly 30 feet before you meet a pronounced right-facing dihedral.

The closing moves demand a short but steep push, about 15 feet, with protection sparse and placements delicate, culminating at a spacious, though loose, belay ledge. Here the terrain commands respect—while the ledge provides space to regroup, the loose rock introduces an element of unpredictability that climbers must approach with focused caution. Once atop, descent options allow for a westward or eastward scramble, an unassuming traverse down that fits the canyon’s natural rhythms.

The route benefits from the quiet wilderness of Boulder Canyon—a stretch marked by weathered granite and scattered aspens whispering in the mountain breeze. While modest in length and height, the climb’s character lies in its subtle demands on technique and gear management, rewarding those who prepare with precise rack selections and steady footwork. Small cams and stoppers secure the lower section effectively, but larger cams become critical for the belay setup. This combination underscores the need for a well-rounded protection kit and confident placement skills.

Boulder Canyon’s proximity to the town of Boulder means this route can fit smoothly into a day of climbing amidst stunning natural beauty, with the added benefit of rapid access. The route shines best in the spring and fall months when temperatures remain crisp, and the aspen leaves add a faint rustle to the sonic backdrop. Climbing during the heat of summer calls for early starts to beat the sun’s climb over the crag’s ridge, while winter ice and snow generally close this stretch.

Whether you’re warming up for longer multi-pitch routes in the area or seeking a neat, approachable lead that blends technique with adventure, Left-angling Crack is a testament to efficient climbing—small in scale but rich in experience. Prepare for a route where silence is broken only by the occasional scrape of rock or the soft clog of shoes on granite, and the quiet intimacy of Boulder’s wild side comes sharply into focus.

Climber Safety

The belay ledge at the top is notably loose; climbers should test holds carefully and avoid excessive weight on unstable rocks. Loose debris can also pose a hazard during ascent and descent, so helmets and attentive gear management are essential.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Look for the small white aspen tree marking the start behind the approach path.

Use early morning hours in summer to avoid sun exposure on the slab section.

Pack a full rack with extra small cams and stoppers for tight placements.

Take care on the loose belay ledge—check all holds before weighting.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Left-angling Crack leans into straightforward movement with a handful of technical sections that elevate the effort. The crux lies in maintaining composure through the roof and the final slab where protection thins and placements demand precision. Compared to other local mid-5th trad routes, this climb feels well within reach for moderate trad proficiency but keeps the margin tight enough to stay engaging.

Gear Requirements

Small cams and stoppers work well for the initial finger crack, while larger cams are needed for the belay. Protection can be tricky through the roof section and the upper slab, so bring a varied rack and anticipate runouts.

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Tags

finger crack
roof traverse
slab
sparsely protected
loose ledge
single pitch
trad
Boulder Canyon