"Lederhosen challenges climbers with a two-pitch trad route along Little Matterhorn’s alpine ramp and dihedral, blending crack climbing finesse with the crisp atmosphere of Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s a straightforward yet mentally engaging climb that rewards both preparation and determination."
Lederhosen stands as a rewarding two-pitch trad climb set in the rugged alpine surroundings of Little Matterhorn within Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Its 200-foot route begins on a distinctive 4th class ramp, inviting climbers to edge right close to a sharp drop-off. Above, a commanding headwall features a broad block sliced by a clean, prominent crack that beckons the ascent.
The first pitch unfolds as a technical climb up the ramp toward this crack, demanding careful gear placement from a #1 to a #3 Camalot as the crack widens. Above it, the rock eases into easier terrain along a narrow ridge where protection becomes sparse, adding a mental edge to the physical challenge. A comfortable ledge about 30 meters above the starting belay offers a secure spot to regroup and plan the push higher.
Pitch two shifts the focus to a left-facing dihedral with a continuous crack suited for #2 Camalots. This section is secured yet adventurous, requiring steady hand jams and footwork to negotiate the line. After topping the dihedral, the route meanders along a rocky ridge leading straightforwardly to the summit – a vantage point rewarding with sweeping views across RMNP’s iconic peaks.
Approaching Lederhosen requires awareness: the route begins at the top of a 4th class ramp, with navigation tight near the drop-off. The rock quality is solid, typical of alpine granite, but sparse protection and the runout sections raise the importance of solid trad skills and good judgment. The descent calls for a controlled 3rd class scramble down the ridge to a talus field on the climber’s left, a brief walk that demands attention to loose rock and footing.
Climbers should come prepared with a standard alpine rack, emphasizing cams up to #3 Camalot to comfortably protect the wider crack systems. Timing your approach when the wall is dry and temperatures moderate ensures the best grip and safer conditions. Given the alpine setting, layering clothing is wise – the weather can shift rapidly, and the sun exposure varies as you climb through shaded ramp sections to sunlit dihedrals.
Lederhosen perfectly blends moderate technical challenge with an alpine spirit, ideal for climbers looking to stretch their crack climbing skills in a high-country environment. The route’s natural lines test gear placements and stamina without overwhelming complexity, making it accessible yet invigorating. Whether you are honing trad crack techniques or craving the thrill of an alpine rock outing, this climb offers a clear window into RMNP’s rock climbing character and pristine mountain terrain.
Watch your footing on the small ridge and near the cliff edges on the approach and descent. Protection can be sparse on the upper ridge; committing moves above gear require confidence. Weather changes can add risk, so monitor forecasts and avoid climbing in wet conditions.
Start early to avoid afternoon afternoon storms common in the Rockies.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for the granite cracks and slabs.
Layer clothing appropriate for sudden alpine weather changes.
Pay close attention to the descent route to avoid loose talus and unstable footing.
A standard alpine rack with cams ranging from #1 to #3 Camalots covers the crack sequences effectively. Protection placement opportunities are solid on the initial pitches but become scarce along the small ridge above the first pitch, so climbers should prepare for some runout sections.
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