"Le toit des Anges is a demanding four-pitch trad climb in Quebec’s Palissades de Charlevoix, featuring a rare and powerful roof crack that calls for strength and skill. This seldom-repeated route offers a rugged adventure for seasoned climbers willing to navigate mossy ledges and technical offwidths."
Le toit des Anges stands out as a bold challenge amid the Palissades de Charlevoix, inviting climbers into a raw encounter with Quebec's rugged granite walls. This trad climb unfolds over four pitches, climbing 350 feet through tight offwidth cracks, forested ledges, and a striking roof pitch that demands both strength and technique. The route begins unassumingly beneath the imposing roof, leading you up and right through moss-wet ledges shaded by scattered trees. The approach carries the faint scent of pine and damp stone, a reminder that this line remains largely untouched and quiet.
Reaching the midway ledge at about 30 meters, the crack angles upward, directing you toward the base of the roof. This section requires thoughtful moves on slightly featured granite, where careful hand jams and secure placements keep momentum steady but measured. Then comes the defining challenge: a bulging roof crack spanning 5 to 6 meters, where you’ll pull hard on solid hand jams, engaging upper body strength and patience. This sustained bulge will push your limits and reward you with a rush of accomplishment.
The climb continues beyond the roof, rising confidently to the cliff top, offering sweeping views over the surrounding Charlevoix region. The route's solitude and occasional moss-covered approach pitches recall the adventure of uncovering a hidden gem—part test of grit, part exploration through nature's quiet persistence.
Because this route is rarely climbed and maintenance on the mossy approach is minimal, it challenges both your physical skills and your resolve. You’ll want a full double rack to protect the varied cracks along the way, with gear placements both secure and demanding. The granite here is solid but can grow slick over time, making footwork and patience essential.
Planning your ascent for late spring through early fall ensures better rock conditions and less moss. Early mornings keep the shaded lower pitches cool while afternoon sun warms the upper walls. The approach trail is short but steep and uneven, weaving through a sparse forest that sings with birdsong and the breeze. Descending is a straightforward walk-off down easy talus, but remain mindful of loose rocks near the collar.
Le toit des Anges offers an experience that balances raw power, precise crack climbing, and a touch of wilderness rarity. It’s well-suited for experienced trad climbers looking for a quietly demanding route with a spectacular roof pitch, far from the traffic of better-known crags. With careful preparation and respect for the environment, this line will reward you with a climb that feels both primal and wholly yours.
Watch for slippery moss and damp rock on the approach pitches; the offwidth and roof sections require solid placements, so double-check your gear. Loose talus near the descent adds another layer of caution—don’t rush the walk-off.
Start early to enjoy cool conditions on the shaded lower pitches.
Expect moss and slippery patches near the approach ledges; sturdy boots and careful foot placement are key.
Bring extra chalk and tape for the demanding roof crack to protect your hands.
Plan your descent carefully—the walk-off route crosses loose talus that requires slow, attentive footing.
A full double rack is necessary, with protection focused on medium to large cams and nuts to secure the offwidth and roof crack sections safely.
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