Le Miel est plus Doux que le Sang offers a steep, demanding challenge for seasoned trad climbers ready to test precise footwork and mental focus on New Brunswick’s rugged cliffs. This single-pitch route cuts a decisive line across a bolted face that demands attention from the first low crux, where every hold insists on commitment and control. As you work upward, the rock tightens with a technical sequence that requires saving strength for a brief but strong overhang toward the top. The climb slightly veers left past this obstacle, then angles up and left again to merge with the final 15 feet of the popular Waltz route, creating a seamless flow for the experienced eye.

Located in the Upper Tier of Cochrane Lane Cliffs, the setting is quiet but alive with the raw energy of New Brunswick’s granite—smooth in places, but with subtle edges that reward skilled technique. The rock’s firm texture offers mostly reliable holds, though the few protection spots available demand precise gear placement and confidence. The mix of bolted cruxes and traditional gear ensures an engaging experience, balancing the security of fixed anchors with the need to read the rock and trust your own rack.

This route sits just over 65 feet long, a compact but intense burst fitting for climbers comfortable pushing the 5.11d grade. The star rating reflects its quality as a compelling and satisfying line, though the rock’s exposed nature and technical moves require readiness over bravado. Expect a sharp mental game as much as physical endurance, with the mental pause before the overhang a good moment to breathe, assess, and execute.

Accessing the route is straightforward, with a short approach into the cliffs that require attention but no serious bushwhacking. A solid pair of climbing shoes with good edging ability is essential to handle the thin feet and precise handholds. Since the route relies on a mix of bolts and traditional placements, a standard rack geared toward smaller cams and nuts will cover the need well. A sturdy, comfortable harness and helmet complete the kit—there’s enough rockfall danger around to keep awareness high.

The Upper Tier’s outlook is quiet and reflective, framed by the green folds of the surrounding forest and leaving ample space for concentration. Though the route faces generally east, morning light strikes the face perfectly, highlighting the texture and shadows that guide your moves. Spring through early fall offers the best conditions to climb, avoiding colder, wetter months that soften hash marks and increase rock slipperiness.

Descending is a straightforward walk-off once back on Waltz, considered safer and less technical than a rappel here; still, familiarity with the area or a partner’s guidance is advised to avoid any missteps on loose ground. This, paired with the route’s focused intensity and rewarding finish, makes Le Miel est plus Doux que le Sang a must-try for climbers ready to sharpen their trad skills within New Brunswick’s fine granite walls.