"Le Marchand de sable is a concise trad climb in Quebec’s Laurentians, featuring a single pitch that balances approachable slab climbing with careful protection needs. Moisture can linger along the route, rewarding patient footwork and steady crack climbing."
Le Marchand de sable carves a brief yet memorable climb amid Quebec’s Laurentians, presenting a single pitch of straightforward trad climbing that belies subtle challenges. The route starts on a slab often lingering with moisture, demanding steady footwork and confidence in damp conditions. As you ascend, solid holds and clean cracks invite deliberate movement, guiding you upward toward a secure glue-in anchor perched on the higher slab. Beyond this point, the rock grows a touch more demanding, rewarding alert climbers with textured surfaces that test balance and finesse.
Situated within the Montagne d'Argent sector of the Grand Canyon area, this climb offers a focused experience for those looking to sharpen their trad skills without committing to extended walls. The 53-foot stretch blends approachable difficulty with a need for cautious protection choices. A single rack suffices for safeguarding the pitch, while the fixed anchor ensures a reliable top-out. Despite its modest length and grade, Le Marchand de sable requires respecting the slab’s slippery tendencies, encouraging climbers to stay patient and deliberate.
The Laurentians’ cool northern latitude means the rock stays damp longer than many other regional climbs, especially after rain or morning dew. Timing your ascent for later morning or early afternoon improves dry time and traction. Access is straightforward, with a short approach through forested trails that soften the transition between outdoor adventure and focused climbing effort. Whether you’re brushing up on slab technique or seeking an accessible trad climb, Le Marchand de sable offers a compact, skillful venture with all the crisp air and quiet natural presence Quebec’s climbing areas are known for.
The slab remains damp after rain or morning dew, which can reduce traction and increase risk. Move deliberately, double-check foot placements, and avoid rushing the start. The glue-in anchor is solid but be mindful of the short runout sections before it.
Start your climb mid-to-late morning for drier conditions on the slab.
Bring a standard trad rack with cams and nuts suited for slab cracks.
Expect slippery spots early; take your time placing feet securely.
The approach trail is short but crosses forested terrain—wear sturdy footwear.
A single rack is sufficient for protection along the slab, with a reliable glue-in anchor setup at the top. Protection placements are straightforward but require attention on damp rock.
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