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LBJ Ate Here: A Technical Trad Challenge on Tuolumne Peak

Lee Vining, California United States
crack climbing
multi-pitch
granite headwall
loose talus scramble
moderate protection
Yosemite trad
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
LBJ Ate Here
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"LBJ Ate Here stakes its claim as a focused three-pitch trad climb on Tuolumne Peak’s east face, weaving solid crack systems with a crux zone that challenges skill and strategy. It’s a gritty, authentic route deserving of trad climbers seeking a climb off the beaten path within Yosemite’s May Lake area."

LBJ Ate Here: A Technical Trad Challenge on Tuolumne Peak

LBJ Ate Here presents a compelling three-pitch trad climb set along the rugged east face of Tuolumne Peak, tucked within the iconic environs of Yosemite’s May Lake Area. This route invites climbers to engage with two parallel crack systems that slice through the granite, demanding precise hand jams and calculated footwork. The approach strolls through open meadows before narrowing to a brisk scramble up talus at the base, setting a deliberate tone where every step counts. The rock itself holds a steady character at first—solid, textured granite that’s reassuring beneath your fingers. But as you approach the headwall, the climb’s defining crux emerges: a steeper section where the stone loses some of its consistent integrity, demanding extra care and thoughtful protection placement.

Scaling this upper headwall offers a tactile dialogue between climber and rock, challenging technique without overwhelming with sheer difficulty. While the rock quality here dips, the route remains a worthy pursuit for intermediate climbers confident with 5.10a challenges, providing a balance between physical exertion and mental navigation. At the top of the final pitch, the cracks conclude at the entrance to a seldom-used right upper gully. From here, a short scramble through loose talus and pockets of hardy trees leads to the summit’s quieter vantage points.

LBJ Ate Here rewards with panoramic views of Tuolumne Meadows’s sprawling granite fields and the whispering pines beyond. The climb’s location inside Yosemite’s protected wilderness ensures not only an adventurous experience but also a connection to one of California’s most treasured outdoor arenas. Climbers should come prepared with a full modern rack to protect wide crack sections up to a #4 Camalot, as gear placement is integral to safety and rhythm. Remember, despite a moderate length of about 300 feet, the route demands sustained focus through varied terrain.

Timing your climb to morning or early afternoon hours ensures a comfortable temperature range and maximizes rock friction before potential afternoon warmth creeps in. The approach, just over a mile from well-marked trails near May Lake, weaves through open forest and granite slabs, making navigation straightforward but requiring readiness for elevation changes and uneven footing. Maintaining solid hydration and wearing sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability will elevate your efficiency.

Ultimately, LBJ Ate Here stands as a focused, slightly gritty adventure. It’s perfectly suited for those climbing traditional routes who relish technical crack work paired with a bit of route-finding spice. While it won’t dazzle with flawless rock quality throughout, it challenges with its rugged authenticity and provides a sense of accomplishment far from Yosemite’s busiest walls.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the upper crux section where rock quality is softer and protection placements are less solid. The talus scramble at the top requires careful footwork as loose rocks can shift underfoot—avoid this section when wet or icy.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Approach via well-marked trails near May Lake, expect a mile of varied terrain including talus scramble.

Morning climbs offer better friction and cooler temps; avoid afternoons when granite heats up.

Use shoes with firm edging capabilities for the crack work and headwall moves.

Prepare for a short loose talus scramble at the top pitch to reach the trees and descent points.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating reflects a moderate-to-technical challenge with a distinct crux on the upper headwall. While not sustained at 5.10 difficulty throughout, the tougher moves combined with the transition in rock quality add mental complexity. Climbers familiar with Yosemite’s granite crack climbs, such as those on Cathedral Peak, will find LBJ Ate Here comparably engaging but with a slightly rougher finish.

Gear Requirements

Bring a modern trad rack with cams ranging up to a #4 Camalot; protection placements are variable, especially near the crux where rock quality is less reliable.

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Tags

crack climbing
multi-pitch
granite headwall
loose talus scramble
moderate protection
Yosemite trad