"Laundry Chute offers a short but engaging trad climb along a shallow, dirt-patched crack in Mission Gorge’s Main Wall. Perfect for honing crack techniques, this 25-foot pitch challenges climbers with smart gear placements and an improvised anchor atop a distinct chute feature."
Laundry Chute is an unassuming trad classic tucked within the Main Wall of Mission Gorge, offering a brief yet rewarding pitch for climbers eager to test their crack skills without committing to a multi-pitch. The climb unfolds along a shallow and patchy crack that threads up through an evocative chute—a natural channel shaped by weather and time—that demands attentive footwork and steady hands. Its modest 25-foot length belies the subtle challenges embedded in the route’s discontinuous crack, interspersed with pockets of accumulated dirt that add texture and variability to each move. The climb sits amid broad granite faces sculpted by the elements, where sunlight shifts across features to both illuminate and shadow the line. This variability creates a dynamic environment where each attempt feels fresh despite the short vertical gain.
Protection here is straightforward but requires some resourcefulness. Small to medium-sized cams will fit most of the crack sections, but be prepared to sling large boulders at the top for anchor building, as the original cold shut anchors have been removed. This anchor modification adds a layer of hands-on problem solving and a connection to the rock beyond just the climb itself.
The approach to Laundry Chute is manageable, traversing through scrubby chaparral and rocky outcrops that carry the sound of distant birds and rustling leaves. The trail is well worn but can be uneven, so sturdy footwear and attention are essential. The climb’s southern California location means it enjoys moderate winter temperatures and sun exposure that can warm the rock nicely on cooler days but also calls for early morning attempts to avoid the height of summer heat.
While only rated 5.8, Laundry Chute presents a good test of crack climbing fundamentals, ideal for those looking to sharpen gear placement and finger-hand jams in a setting that keeps distractions to a minimum. The route’s mixture of steady movement and gear challenges hooks the climber into a short but focused adventure. Because of its exposed ledge and variable protection, climbers must approach with care and leave room for patience when piecing together a secure anchor.
A session here will leave you with a rewarding sense of earned accomplishment against a granite face that encourages respect and quiet reflection. Its simplicity is its strength—a slice of Mission Gorge’s climbing story where the rock speaks clearly through its cracks and edges.
Anchor options are limited due to removed fixed gear; slinging boulders must be done cautiously to avoid instability. The dirt within the crack can reduce friction on holds, so clean placements and deliberate movements are key. Additionally, the exposed ledge near the top warrants careful footing and secure belaying.
Start early in the day to avoid heat on exposed southern faces.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for better foot jams on dirt-filled sections.
Double-check anchor slings around large rocks before committing to the rappel.
Approach trail is uneven; sturdy hiking shoes make the approach easier.
Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams to protect the discontinuous crack sections. Original cold shut anchors have been removed; plan to sling large boulders or build a solid trad gear anchor at the top ledge.
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