"A short but demanding sport route, Last of the Mul-hicans offers climbers a technical test on vertical terrain that bends into a low-angle finish. Its precise moves and solid anchors make it a focused challenge for local climbers."
Last of the Mul-hicans challenges climbers with a concentrated burst of technical climbing on a steep vertical wall that gradually eases into a low-angle finish. This single-pitch sport route in the Ontario South Bouldering and Rock area tests finger strength and precise movement, rewarding those who engage its bold sequences with satisfying, well-shaped holds that demand commitment and control. The climb’s modest height belies the intensity packed into each move—expect a relentless rhythm that pushes you to find efficiency in tension and reach. The rock face is smooth but punctuated by distinct edges and slopers that invite calculated trust in your grip. The finish opens up onto a gentler slab, allowing breath and reflection after the demanding crux.
Approaching the route involves a brief walk through Devil's Glen, a region characterized by crisp forest air and rugged limestone formations that echo with the quiet sounds of nature. Early morning or late afternoon light casts gentle shadows on the wall, making for striking visual contrast and reducing glare on the holds—ideal for those seeking to maximize their focus. Though short, this climb is a perfect training ground for climbers ready to refine their technique on sport routes at this difficulty.
Gear-wise, all you need are quickdraws and a reliable rope; the anchors at the top are solid and accessible for an easy top-rope setup or lead rappel. The protection is straightforward—no tricky placements or loose gear—so you can center your efforts on the sequence rather than equipment. Traffic here is low, preserving the route’s pristine condition and offering a peaceful climbing experience away from crowded crags.
To prepare for Last of the Mul-hicans, hone your finger strength and practice controlled footwork, as the moves require precise balance and trusting your feet on the vertical terrain. Hydration is key on warmer days, as the climb exposes you to open air without shade near the top. Given its brief length, it’s an excellent warm-up or cool-down climb after exploring other nearby routes in the area.
Devil’s Glen itself demands respect—weather can shift quickly and trail footing varies from smooth forest floor to loose gravel near the climb. Be sure to check local conditions before heading out and plan your arrival to avoid peak heat hours, especially in the summer months. This route is a sharp reminder: sometimes the most potent climbing comes in the briefest packages.
The approach includes uneven and occasionally loose terrain; take care to maintain footing especially when wet. The route itself has solid fixed anchors, but the rock can be sharp near the edges—wear proper gloves or tape if needed. Avoid climbing in wet conditions to reduce slip risk.
Best climbed in early morning or late afternoon to avoid glare on holds.
Carry enough water as the climb has exposed sections without shade.
Check weather conditions; Devil's Glen trails can be slick after rain.
Dress in layers; morning temperatures can be cool near the rock face.
The route features reliable anchors and straightforward sport protection. Bring quickdraws and a rope; no additional trad gear is necessary.
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