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Last Dance: Thin Crack Trad at Smooth Sole Wall

Idyllwild, California USA
thin crack
runout
small cams
lieback
single pitch
desert climbing
rappel anchor
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Last Dance
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Last Dance offers a refined test of small gear and delicate footwork on a thin, sustained crack at Smooth Sole Wall. Perfect for trad climbers wanting a single-pitch challenge with subtle technical moves and a commitment to careful protection."

Last Dance: Thin Crack Trad at Smooth Sole Wall

Last Dance carves a compelling line along the far left edge of Smooth Sole Wall, where a slender, unforgiving crack challenges your precision and focus. This single-pitch trad climb stretches 120 feet through textured granite, beckoning climbers who appreciate the tactile engagement of finger jams and delicate liebacks. From the base, the crack narrows as it ascends, demanding steady footwork and steady nerves, especially where protective gear becomes scarce near the top. The route rewards with a satisfying rhythm as you finger and edge your way upward, the rock’s granular surface cool under fingers, contrasting with the arid California sun warming your back.

Smooth Sole Wall sits in the heart of Suicide Rock, just outside the charming town of Idyllwild. The approach winds through dry chaparral and sandy patches, offering a short but commitment-filled entry that stokes anticipation with each step. To engage Last Dance fully means soaking in the setting: the crack’s fine features dare you to trust your placements, the wind whispers through nearby pines, and distant peaks punctuate the horizon. Though the protection thins in the upper section, the runout is manageable for those confident with small cams and careful footwork. Climbers eager to lap the moves can also top-rope the route, making it approachable for bold beginners pushing their crack skills.

Choosing your gear wisely is crucial—this climb rewards the patient with well-placed small cams and stoppers, but larger cams won’t find purchase here. A double rack of thin pro up to half an inch is essential, and be sure to bring slings to extend gear placements, minimizing rope drag along the slight traverse.

Timing your climb is straightforward: mornings bring cooler rock and softer shadow from the east, while the afternoon sun fully bakes the wall. Spring and fall offer the best conditions when the heat of summer can dry you out prematurely, and winter’s chill makes thin finger jams feel brutal. The descent follows a two-bolt anchor at the lip, where a single 60-meter rappel returns you safely to the base.

Last Dance is a quiet gem for trad climbers looking for a technical, runout challenge that demands finesse over brute strength. It’s a route that teaches patience, precision, and trust in your gear, providing both the thrill of thin crack climbing and the satisfaction of a clean send in one memorable pitch.

Climber Safety

Protection thins near the top, increasing potential fall distances. Gear placements require precise judgment and experience with small cams. Always double-check anchors and consider a backup rappel line for added security.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid baking sun in the afternoon.

Use tape on fingers to protect delicate skin on thin jams.

Bring a 60m rope for a smooth single rappel off the two-bolt anchor.

Top-roping is a good way to preview the tricky upper layback moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a R grade signals technical difficulty paired with runout sections, especially near the upper crack where gear becomes sparse. The 'R' rating reminds climbers to be cautious and confident with small-pro placements. Similar in style to other technical crack lines at Suicide Rock, it rewards patience more than power.

Gear Requirements

Pack a full rack of small cams and stoppers up to 1/2 inch, plus slings for extending placements. Expect tricky gear placements in the upper half of the crack where protection options are limited. Two-bolt anchor at the top enables safe rappelling.

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Tags

thin crack
runout
small cams
lieback
single pitch
desert climbing
rappel anchor