"Las Chimuelas stakes its claim as a compelling three-pitch sport climb on El Potrero Chico’s Jungle Wall. With newly bolted lines and firm holds, it offers steady technical moves wrapped in a vibrant forested setting that challenges climbers to move efficiently and attentively."
Las Chimuelas offers an engaging three-pitch sport climb set against the rugged limestone cliffs of La Selva, within the climbing haven of El Potrero Chico. This route moves steadily upward along newly placed bolts that guide you around stretch sections of blank slabs toward sturdy, well-constructed anchors. The first pitch demands attention: its bolts are spaced to encourage careful movement, yet the generous holds reward measured pacing. As you climb, the jungle wall seems to lean inward, the dense greenery framing your line but staying just out of reach, reminding you that nature is present but not intrusive.
Following pitch one, the line veers slightly left, with a network of smaller but confident grips offering a technical 5.9 challenge that tests finger strength and body positioning. Vegetation crowds the edges, daring you to focus on the rock’s positive holds and steady upward drive. The final pitch is brief but decisive, leading to the route’s top out where wide views of the El Potrero Chico valley unfold beneath the granite edges. The limestone here is solid, though climbers should move deliberately to avoid loose debris stirred by the surrounding forest.
At 250 feet total length, the route’s pitches break down into manageable segments—100 feet, 90 feet, then 60 feet—allowing for an efficient pace without sacrifice to the climbing rhythm. Because of these distances, rappelling demands attention: a single rope won’t suffice for a full descent, so plan accordingly with gear and rope length.
Protection consists primarily of reliable bolts spaced to balance safety and challenge. Climbers will want about 10 quickdraws and possibly a long sling for some tricky clip scenarios. The bolts reflect recent maintenance, relieving past concerns around older, less secure placements. The environment brings a mix of sun and shadow with the jungle wall’s aspect, making early morning or late afternoon ideal climbing times to avoid afternoon heat.
Approach is straightforward: an accessible, well-trodden trail from El Potrero Chico's main parking area leads to La Selva sector in under 30 minutes. The journey is punctuated by the sounds of local wildlife and the scent of dry forest mingled with kermes oak, putting climbers in sync with nature’s pulse before their first step on the rock. The area’s altitude and exposure suggest bringing plenty of water, a hat, and sturdy climbing shoes that handle both slab and vertical pockets effectively.
Las Chimuelas is suited for climbers seeking a sport climb with moderate technical moves wrapped in an immersive natural setting—ideal for those who want to blend climbing skill-building with the character and raw energy of one of Mexico’s premier crags. Seasonal weather considerations come into play, with spring and fall offering the most comfortable climbing conditions. In harsher summer afternoons, the rock bakes under the sun, and the jungle’s humidity ramps up.
This route is perfectly positioned within the internationally renowned El Potrero Chico climbing corridor, a place where adventure meets accessibility, and every climb tells a story of limestone, persistence, and sky. Whether you're sending single pitches or connecting all three, Las Chimuelas promises a balanced challenge framed by the enticing wildness of northern Mexico’s climbing frontier.
Watch your clip placements on the longer bolt runs, especially pitch one; the first bolt is deceptively high, encouraging deliberate and controlled moves. Also beware loose vegetation around the upper pitches that could kick up debris.
Start climbs early to catch cooler morning temperatures and avoid afternoon heat.
Hydrate well before the approach; water sources are limited near La Selva.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber able to handle slab moves and pockets alike.
Prepare two ropes for rappelling—single rope won’t reach the ground safely.
Bring about 10 quickdraws for the well-spaced bolts and consider one long sling for tricky clips. Recent rebolting ensures solid protection but comes with longer draws between points—stay focused on clip management.
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