"Tight, technical moves on dark rock define this 65-foot sport route at Cochrane Lane Cliffs. A sharp crux involves pulling over a small roof, rewarding climbers who combine strength with precision on a steady, challenging line."
L'Ange qui Saigne des Plumes challenges climbers to master precision and power on the cold, dark stone of Cochrane Lane Cliffs. This single-pitch sport route demands technical finesse from the moment you clip the first bolt. The climb begins with a series of carefully calculated moves on smooth rock, requiring focus and fluidity to maintain momentum. As you push upward, the line veers left toward another bolt, where the holds narrow and the pressure mounts. Here, a compact roof awaits, daring you to engage core strength and timing to pull through the crux. Reaching a comfortable stance beneath this overhang offers a brief respite, but the real challenge lies in the final moves over the roof, demanding controlled power and precise footwork to reach the last bolt.
The atmosphere atop the cliff yields easy climbing to the anchor, a welcome reward after the demanding sequence. Dark rock texture under your fingertips adds a tactile element to the challenge, grounding each move with raw physicality. Protection comes in the form of reliable bolts and a rap ring anchor for a straightforward descent. While the route’s 65 feet may feel brief, it packs a dense experience—not simply vertical distance but a test of technique and nerve.
Approaching the climb, the Cochrane Lane area sits in the quiet outskirts of Welsford, offering a focused climbing experience without the bustle of more popular crags. The rock’s surface, shaped by glacial history, provides solid friction, but climbers should prepare for the route’s sustained intensity and precisely placed protection. Ideal for climbers comfortable in the 5.12a range, this route demands respect; the crux earns its PG13 rating for the delicate moves and risk of falls.
Planning your day here means packing shoes with a keen edging ability and chalk to manage sweat through tricky pinches and slopers. The cliff faces east-southeast, catching morning light and casting shade by late afternoon—a factor to consider for timing your climb especially in warmer months. Be aware the approach is straightforward but expect rugged forest trails that require durable footwear. Hydration and layered clothing aid comfort in the variable conditions common to New Brunswick’s transitional seasons.
In short, L'Ange qui Saigne des Plumes is a technical gem for climbers who appreciate the precision of movement on demanding sport climbs. It captures the thrill of connecting subtle holds and conquering an imposing roof sequence—all while immersed in a quietly powerful landscape. This route is as much a mental puzzle as it is physical, rewarding preparation and patience with a memorable ascent in Canada’s emerging climbing scene.
The roof crux presents a fall hazard with minimal protection; maintain controlled moves and clip bolts deliberately. The rock is generally solid but remains slick in damp conditions, so avoid climbing after rain or heavy dew. The descent uses a single rappel with a fixed ring—check gear before lowering.
Begin early to take advantage of morning sun, as the cliff shades by afternoon.
Use shoes with sharp edging for the slick, dark volcanic rock.
Stay well chalked for the slippery roof crux moves.
Approach via forest trail and wear sturdy shoes for uneven ground.
Bolts provide secure protection along the route, with a rap ring anchor offering safe and efficient descent options.
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