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Lakeview Arete: A Radiant Granite Challenge at Herring Creek Dome

Sonora, California United States
right facing dihedral
granite
multi-colored rock
single pitch
mixed protection
medium to large cams
exposed face
elevation challenge
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lakeview Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lakeview Arete ascends a brilliant, multihued granite dihedral below Pinecrest Peak, blending sustained 5.10a moves with a mix of bolts and traditional gear. Perfect for climbers craving a single-pitch challenge that rewards precision and offers stunning views."

Lakeview Arete: A Radiant Granite Challenge at Herring Creek Dome

Rising just beneath the Pinecrest Peak sign, Lakeview Arete carves a striking line up a right-facing granite dihedral that immediately grabs your attention. The granite itself is alive with flashes of red, orange, and pink—colors that catch the eye and challenge your focus as you ascend. Starting in a corner cocooned by shrubs, the climb demands a careful traverse before pushing upward on a sustained 5.10a face, weaving around the arete when necessary. The holds fluctuate between spacious pockets that invite confident moves and smaller grips that test finger strength and technique. As you near the top, the climb eases, offering a welcome reprieve and the chance to catch your breath against a medium-sized belay ledge.

The setting is remote yet accessible, found within the Red Herring Dihedrals area just off Sonora Pass Highway (108) in California’s rugged Sierra Nevada. The approach carries its own challenges—either a controlled rappel from a solid trad anchor positioned above the route or a scramble down a sketchy class 3 terrain from the talus field below. A 60-meter rope is recommended for the rappel, which drops you precisely to the belay zone before the climb begins. For those preferring a more conventional start, descending by hand or rope to the talus field to the base is possible but demands caution.

Protection blends traditional placements with fixed bolts—three bolts secure the route, culminating in a two-bolt anchor at the top. While the bolts offer reassurance, a 1-inch cam placed early provides vital security against a potential fall that could otherwise send a climber tumbling 60 feet down the rock face. Larger cams, between 1 and 4 inches, augment the protection and suit the dihedral's generous cracks. The combination of gear styles requires a rack prepared for medium and larger cams, plus quickdraws to clip the bolts efficiently.

Lakeview Arete delivers an engaging mix of exposure, spice, and rock quality. The granite’s coarse texture gives solid friction, but the multi-colored shades can momentarily distract, requiring steady focus on footwork and hand holds. For climbers coming from lower elevations, the altitude and sustained grade contribute to an intensified sense of challenge, often making the 5.10a feel more formidable than expected. This route demands patience and respect from those who seek to master its moves.

Access is straightforward but demands preparedness. The approach trail weaves through loose scree and scattered forest patches, providing expansive views of the surrounding peaks. Timing your climb during cooler morning hours will help manage the sun’s intensity, especially on exposed faces. Weather here can shift quickly; it’s wise to check forecasts and bring layers for varying conditions. Hydration and sturdy approach shoes are critical for the rough scramble areas.

Descend with caution—the belay ledge offers no easy walk-off. Downclimbing or rappelling back to the talus field is necessary, each option requiring attention to footholds and anchor quality. For those climbing on top-rope, the setup is straightforward, but leading demands proficiency in placing gear smoothly, balancing fall potential with confidence.

Lakeview Arete stands as a compelling climb for those ready to dive into a vibrant granite wall with a blend of sport bolts and trad gear. It's an adventure that sharpens both mental focus and physical skill, surrounded by the stark beauty of California’s Sierra Nevada.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant with your initial placements; a slip early in the route can result in a dangerous fall down the rocky cliff. The descent is exposed and requires secure rappel anchors or confident downclimbing skills. Verify all gear before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport, TR
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Bring a 60-meter rope for approach and rappel; shorter ropes won't reach the belay spot.

Start early to avoid midday heat, as sun exposure is significant on the face.

Check gear placements carefully—the first pro placement is key to safety.

Prepare for a tricky downclimb or rappel; do not underestimate the exit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Lakeview Arete offers sustained difficulty that can feel stiffer due to altitude and continuous climbing with few rests. The route’s cruxes involve committing moves on pockets that range in size, demanding precise footwork and solid hand strength. Compared to nearby climbs, this one is a balanced test of traditional technique with bolted security, ideal for climbers stepping up from 5.9 or looking for a confident 5.10a experience in this area.

Gear Requirements

The route requires a mix of trad and sport gear. Three bolts and a two-bolt anchor provide fixed protection, but a 1" cam is essential early on to protect against a serious fall. Medium to large cams (1" to 4") fit the dihedral’s spacious cracks comfortably.

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Tags

right facing dihedral
granite
multi-colored rock
single pitch
mixed protection
medium to large cams
exposed face
elevation challenge