"A two-pitch climb blending confident sport climbing with a gripping trad traverse in Quebec’s Laurentians. The popular first pitch welcomes all, but the second pitch beckons trad climbers to experience a unique horizontal crack under a roof that requires both skill and strategy."
La valse des retraités invites climbers into the heart of Quebec's Laurentians—a climbing experience that blends accessible sport moves with an adventurous trad puzzle on its upper pitch. The route opens with a well-equipped first pitch that draws many, but it’s the second pitch where the true character of this climb shines, rewarding those comfortable on a 5.9 trad grade with a unique traverse under a roof.
Starting in a narrow chimney, the initial 20 meters offer a secure ascent bolstered by 8 bolts guiding climbers toward a slab to the right. The moves here require balance and precision as you shift from the sheltered chimney to the more exposed slab, culminating in a small crack that demands some careful footwork before you reach the bolted anchor. The option of ignoring the 9th bolt allows seasoned climbers to test their route-reading skills and trust their placements.
Beyond the first pitch’s popularity lies the real gem of the climb: the second pitch. This 25-meter stretch challenges you with a horizontal crack traverse beneath an overhanging roof. You’ll start just right of the roof at a large flake, clipping three bolts before engaging a demanding crack that requires a range of finger sizes—from thin to wide—along with smart placement of gear. The traverse feels like a puzzle, inviting you to move deliberately and think ahead, with protection that rewards careful attention and skillful placement of small cams or tricams, although these aren’t mandatory. As this pitch can’t be cleaned by lowering or rappelling, having a conscientious second to follow and clean the gear is crucial.
La valse des retraités is a clear example of how sport and trad styles can coexist on one route, offering a versatile experience in a pristine section of the Laurentians. The wooded area is quiet but alive with the sounds of wind and distant wildlife, grounding you as you focus on each hold, each movement. With 150 feet of climbing split between two pitches—sportishly protected below and trad-heavy above—it’s a compact yet memorable adventure.
Gear-wise, climbers should come prepared for a hybrid challenge: quickdraws for the bolts upfront and a solid rack spanning thin to medium cams for the crack traverse. Tricams might add security if you prefer redundant backup, especially in the horizontal crack section. Climbing shoes with sticky rubber and good edging will help balance the delicate slab and more demanding crack moves.
Expect the approach to be straightforward within the Montagne d’Argent area, allowing plenty of time to focus on the climb rather than logistics. Late spring through early fall provides ideal conditions, avoiding seasons when moisture chills the rock or leaves make footing uncertain. The route faces northeast, catching morning sunlight and offering shade in hot summer afternoons—timing your climb accordingly keeps the rock comfortable underfoot and the day manageable.
La valse des retraités is an approachable yet testing climb for trad climbers ready to push into a sustained 5.9 environment while enjoying Quebec’s natural climbing playground. Its blend of bolts and traditional gear appeals to a range of skill sets and opens a gateway to exploring the Laurentians with confidence and respect for the rock. Treat the horizontal crack with care, bring a partner ready to clean, and savor the satisfying movements that build to a well-earned top-out.
The second pitch's horizontal roof traverse offers limited opportunities for lowering; be sure your second is prepared to follow and clean gear. Attention to protection placements in this section is critical to avoid long falls. Approach in dry conditions to minimize slips on the slab of pitch one.
Bring a trad rack with a wide range of cams for the crack on pitch two.
Have a partner ready to clean the second pitch since lowering isn’t feasible.
Tick the climb in spring through early fall for stable rock and comfortable conditions.
Approach is relatively short and straightforward; check GPS coordinates before heading out.
First pitch is bolted sport climbing with 8 bolts plus anchor. Second pitch needs trad gear spanning thin to wide fingers; tricams are optional but can add security. 7 bolts protect the horizontal crack and roof traverse.
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