"La Vaca delivers a focused two-pitch sport climb on Mota Wall, blending careful protection with technical intensity. Starting with a moderate first pitch that requires smart gear choices before launching into a steep, powerful second pitch, it’s a compelling challenge in El Potrero Chico’s stark desert setting."
La Vaca, quietly commanding attention on the rugged face of Mota Wall in El Potrero Chico, invites climbers to engage with its demanding two-pitch sport route. This ascent starts by coaxing you into its rhythm with a deceptively moderate first pitch at 5.9, featuring placements for nuts to supplement the bolts – a subtle nod to traditional skill within a sport climb’s framework. As your muscles warm and focus sharpens, the second pitch relentlessly escalates to a strenuous 5.11d, testing grip endurance, technical footwork, and mental composure on well-bolted terrain. Climbers find themselves navigating a wall that challenges not just strength, but the measured precision of movement, with enough variety to keep every step interesting.
The route runs approximately 100 feet over two pitches that flow into one another smoothly with a 60-meter rope, ideal for those looking to minimize belay transitions. The rock holds are solid, but the first bolt’s higher positioning means placing gear before clipping is a sound tactic, demanding attentive protection management early in the climb. This feature adds a practical aspect to the route’s adventure, reminding climbers to remain vigilant from the outset.
Surrounding the climb, El Potrero Chico’s arid environment offers stark contrasts—bright sunlight bouncing off limestone cliffs and a consistent breeze that ripples through the narrow canyons. The wall faces northeast, lending morning shade that makes early starts comfortable while afternoons bring full sun exposure. Planning your ascent early in the day allows you to avoid peak heat and benefit from more stable conditions, as this region’s dry air can subject climbers to temperature swings.
For those traveling from afar, the nearby city of Monterrey stands ready with its bustling amenities, making logistics manageable. The access trail to Mota Wall is direct but rugged—expect a 20-to-30-minute rough hike, with well-marked paths but steep sections requiring sturdy footwear and mindful footing. Carry ample water; the desert environment can dry you out faster than you might expect.
La Vaca demands respect through its balanced mix of power moves and delicate foot placements, and while the protection is bolted, supplementary gear such as nuts can make the climb safer and more approachable. The route blends adventure with a touch of technical skill, fitting for those who seek a route that presents challenge without unnecessary risk. This climb is a snapshot of what makes El Potrero Chico a destination—longevity in challenge, clear rock quality, and crisp desert air that pushes you to focus completely on the game of climbing.
Whether you’re sharpening your onsight skills or looking to push into the 5.11 realm with thoughtful gear tactics, La Vaca provides a satisfying balance of exhilaration and practicality, inviting climbers to test their limits while embracing the desert’s rugged embrace.
Note that the first bolt on pitch one is positioned high, requiring nuts for safe protection before clipping. The approach trail is steep and rocky, so strong footing and hydration are critical. The desert heat can intensify exposure, especially in the afternoon.
Start early to avoid the intense afternoon sun on this northeast-facing wall.
Bring nuts in addition to quickdraws for supplementary gear on the first pitch.
Wear sturdy shoes and carry plenty of water for the approach and climb.
Expect a 20-to-30-minute hike on a rough but marked trail to access the base.
Bolts provide the main protection, but placing nuts on the first pitch enhances safety due to the first bolt’s high position. A 60-meter rope is sufficient to combine the two pitches smoothly.
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