"This approachable 45-foot climb on Montagne d'Argent combines easy sport climbing with a short trad crack, perfect for those refining gear placements or seeking a quick, engaging pitch in Quebec's Laurentians. Solid granite and fixed anchors make for a safe, straightforward outing."
La Tactique du Gendarme invites climbers into a concise yet engaging route tucked within the rugged contours of Montagne d'Argent in Quebec’s Laurentian range. This 45-foot climb offers an approachable introduction to mixed climbing styles, with an easy sport start that quickly transitions into a left-leaning crack demanding some traditional protection skills. The wall’s moderate angle and straightforward moves allow even less experienced climbers to focus on technique and flow, while the crack section beckons those who enjoy placing larger gear in natural features.
The climb’s environment reflects the Laurentians’ characteristic granite—solid and textured, with enough variation to keep each move interesting without overwhelming. Sunlight dances over the rock face for much of the day, especially in morning hours, providing warm, dry conditions that highlight the subtly varied holds. With just one pitch, La Tactique du Gendarme is accessible for a quick outing, perfect for climbers looking to mix sport and trad in a single route and those refining their crack climbing without a committing multi-pitch experience.
Protection consists of three fixed bolts in the lower section, ensuring confident clipping during the sport portion. Higher up, one or two large gear placements accommodate the crack but require thoughtful placement to maintain a safe runout. Experienced climbers might choose to forego gear if comfortable with sparse protection and distance between bolts. Anchors are fixed and reliable, anchoring you securely at the climb’s natural summit.
Approach is straightforward from Montagne d’Argent’s base, cutting through well-trodden forest trails that bring you within minutes of the climb with little elevation gain. The serene Laurentian wilderness around the route offers a quiet retreat, where ambient forest sounds mix with bird calls and the occasional rustle of wildlife. While the pitch is brief, the setting feels tucked away enough to provide a refreshing slice of solitude amid the region’s popular climbing zones.
Ideal timing to tackle La Tactique du Gendarme falls in late spring through early fall, when the granite is dry and temperatures hover comfortably from cool to warm. Morning climbs benefit from the sun’s early rays warming the rock, ideal for those who prefer starting cool and building in warmth. Footwear with sticky rubber will aid edging on the granite’s moderate verticality, while hydration and layered clothing ensure comfort during this calm but exposed outing.
This route is a solid choice for climbers eager to practice gear placements on larger pieces or looking to flow through a mixed climb without committing to a lengthy, multi-pitch adventure. Whether as a lunchtime escape or a quick warm-up for a longer day, La Tactique du Gendarme stands out as a no-frills climb combining gentle challenges with a clean, forested setting perfect for quiet focus and steady progress.
While three bolts prevent a total ground fall in the lower section, the upper crack section holds limited protection, meaning a fall there can be serious. Climbers should carefully place larger gear or accept the risk of runout accordingly. Always inspect fixed anchors before committing to the anchor station.
Start early for optimal morning sun on the rock face.
Bring large cams or nuts for the crack section to ensure solid protection.
Be prepared for some runout if you choose to climb without gear.
Approach trail is clear but wear sturdy shoes to handle forest terrain.
The route includes three fixed bolts for protection on the sport section, with one to two placements of large traditional gear recommended for the crack. Fixed anchors ensure a secure top belay. Climbing without gear is possible but involves runout.
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