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La Sureña - Bold Trad Climbing at El Escalon

El Escalon, Jalisco Mexico
roof
ring locks
trad gear
2 inch cams
El Escalon
granite
rappel tree
Length: 125 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
-1
Location
La Sureña
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"La Sureña delivers a demanding 125-foot trad climb at El Escalon, featuring technical ring locks over a key roof section. This route challenges climbers with sustained 5.12a moves and requires solid gear placements up to 2 inches."

La Sureña - Bold Trad Climbing at El Escalon

La Sureña stands as one of the standout trad routes at El Escalon, demanding focus and finesse as climbers tackle its distinctive ring locks over a compact roof. The climb’s 125-foot length cuts through rock that commands respect, offering a sustained challenge at 5.12a that pushes beyond the average visitor’s comfort zone without tipping into the realm of the unreachable. The roof section is a defining feature, forcing you to engage body tension and technique on those tricky ring locks that dare you to stick every move. Above, the rock’s texture invites committed placements, with gear up to 2 inches required to secure your passage safely. When you reach the summit, a solid tree anchors your rappel, completing the adventure with a straightforward descent back to the base. Situated in Northern Mexico's El Escalon area, this climb rewards climbers not just with technical challenge but with the raw rewards of a less trafficked crag that still maintains reliable conditions for trad climbing. Planning a day here means locking in your protection and brushing up on roof techniques, as the ascent’s defining crux will test your grip, positioning, and mental grit. El Escalon’s granite holds the heat of the sun during the afternoon, so mornings or late afternoons provide the most comfortable climbing windows. Approach trails are short yet rough, requiring steady footing to carry a rack and gear into position. Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your trad skills or tackle a benchmark 5.12, La Sureña offers a clear, exciting line through a compelling rock face that embodies El Escalon’s growing reputation as a destination for serious trad climbers.

Climber Safety

Watch your placements closely through the roof—protection can be sparse in this section and falls could be serious. The rappel tree is reliable but inspect it beforehand as the descent is straightforward yet exposed.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches-1
Length125 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid the intense afternoon heat on the granite walls.

Bring a set of cams up to 2 inches to cover the roof section effectively.

Approach involves a rugged trail—wear sturdy shoes and pack light for a smooth carry-in.

Use the solid tree anchor at the top for a single rappel; double-check your rappel gear before descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating here feels just right for climbers comfortable with sustained technical moves and tricky gear placements. The ring lock roof crux demands body tension and precise footwork, which bumps the climb’s challenge beyond straightforward face climbing. Compared to other El Escalon trad routes, La Sureña stands out for its combination of physical and mental requirements, rating in line with the area’s harder lines but with a uniquely committing roof section.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack to 2-inch cams is essential here, especially to protect the roof crux where placements get tight. Make sure your gear is clean and reliable as runouts increase difficulty beyond pure climbing moves.

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Tags

roof
ring locks
trad gear
2 inch cams
El Escalon
granite
rappel tree