"La suite du Surplomb offers a crisp trad challenge just outside Quebec City in Vieux-Stoneham. Tackle a narrow, technical dihedral before moving onto a delicate slab section with fixed bolts—a climb that sharpens your technique while immersing you in Quebec’s rugged outdoors."
La suite du Surplomb invites climbers into a focused encounter with Quebec’s rugged verticality, situated just outside Quebec City in the wild expanse of Vieux-Stoneham. This single-pitch trad climb, stretching roughly 100 feet, opens with a tight, technical dihedral rated 5.8 that demands precise footwork and confident hand jams. The rock here feels alive beneath your fingers—solid yet textured—testing your ability to read placement and lock in steady movements. After mastering the groove, you face a slab section with three fixed bolts that pose a neatly balanced challenge, requiring smooth slab technique and patience to inch upward while maintaining balance on less featured rock. The route’s rhythm calls for a blend of mental focus and physical control, making it well suited to climbers ready to push their trad skills against an approachable but compelling line.
Surrounding this climb, the environment unfolds with a crispness unique to the Charlevoix region—cool breezes sweep through pine and spruce as the granite walls rise sharply above. The atmosphere encourages purposeful climbing, where each move feels deliberate, carried by the subtle sounds of distant forest life. For those eager to extend the day, a natural link leads to the adjacent Faucon Brosse route, opening further possibilities to explore this compelling pocket of Quebec’s climbing scene.
Practical pointers: this climb shines when dry and benefits from morning to mid-afternoon sun exposure, offering warmth on cooler days without overheating. Approaching La suite du Surplomb requires a straightforward trek from the trailhead, with clear signage guiding you through mixed forest paths suitable for steady hiking boots. Carrying a standard trad rack to complement the three fixed bolts will ensure you’re prepared for varied placements along the dihedral. As with all mountain pursuits, hydration and layered clothing tailored to variable weather enhance comfort and safety.
A concise yet captivating climb, La suite du Surplomb balances accessible difficulty with enough technical intrigue to keep you sharp. It's a rewarding stop for trad climbers traveling through Quebec’s vast wilderness, blending focused climbing with the clarity of the surrounding landscape.
Be mindful that the slab’s fixed bolts require reliable clipping and careful foot placement; the rock is solid but not forgiving of slip-ups. The approach trail can be slippery after rain, so wear sturdy footwear and proceed cautiously.
Approach via the marked trail from Vieux-Stoneham parking; about 20 minutes through mixed forest terrain.
Start climbs mid-morning to enjoy balanced sun exposure and avoid chilly early hours.
Carry extra water; no reliable sources nearby during dry seasons.
Extend your session by continuing onto Faucon Brosse for additional climbing variety.
Bring a standard trad rack to complement the three fixed bolts on the slab section. The narrow dihedral offers natural placements for cams and nuts sized for finger to hand jams.
Upload your photos of La suite du Surplomb and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.