"Stretching over 360 feet across five pitches, La Romi stands as Quebec City's longest trad climb. It combines inviting slab moves with clean cracks and a memorable crux roof to challenge and reward every climber ready for solid multi-pitch adventure."
La Romi stakes its claim as the longest trad climb in the Quebec City region, offering a commanding push of 360 feet across five distinct pitches. This route draws you onto clean slabs and crisp fissures that test both technique and composure. From the start, choices abound—with several approach variations leading climbers to a secure bolted belay anchored near a tall, gray spruce. Whether you opt for the steeper 5.9-10 direct start or the slipperier 5.4 slab version off to the right, the initial pitch sets a balanced tone of engaging movement.
As you notch upward into pitch two, the line leans into an R-rated 5.5 dihedral that challenges your gear placements and footwork as you skirt onto a right-angled slab before following a clean crack system to the next belay. Pitch three brings a step up in complexity with a 5.8 grade, featuring movement that swings right around a bolt fixed into the rock. The pitch flows over flakes and leads straight up a fissure that demands steady holds and confident clipping.
The fourth pitch maintains the 5.8 standard but adds delicate, technical moves around bolts before arriving at a solid crack where protection is more assured. The final pitch is where La Romi shines, pushing to 5.8+ with a powerful crux involving a roof just past the last bolt—a section requiring careful body positioning and precise footwork. Climbing past this obstacle rewards you with a sweeping crack that feeds into a small ledge, framing one of the finest pitches in the Vieux-Stoneham area.
Protection on this route is mostly straightforward, but the last bolt can be tricky to spot amidst the textured rock; supplementing with cams is recommended to cover some harder-to-reach placements, particularly on the upper pitches. The area itself lies east of Quebec City, set within a natural environment that challenges without overwhelming—with enough mature conifers and rugged outcrops to feel remote yet accessible.
Approaching La Romi involves a moderate hike through forest trails, leading to a base that prepares you for the steady elevation gain ahead. Expect about 30 minutes of hiking through well-maintained woodland paths, with GPS coordinates precisely marking your entry point. Timing your climb for dry weather seasons ensures cleaner rock and better friction, while early morning or late afternoon attempts benefit from softer light and cooler wall conditions.
Descent is taken care of by either a controlled rappel or a careful downclimb where possible, requiring attention to loose rock and anchoring options to guarantee a safe exit. This route suits climbers comfortable with multi-pitch trad scenarios seeking a balanced mix of route-finding, crack climbing, and slab technique in one continuous journey.
Watch for the hidden last bolt on the final pitch to avoid prolonged gasps mid-roof. Loose rock near belays requires vigilance, and rappelling must be done carefully to avoid snagging or dropping gear. Avoid climbing after heavy rain to prevent slippery surfaces.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on the slabs.
Check for dry conditions—quebec’s rock can get slick after rain.
Wear polished but grippy shoes for slab sections mixed with crack climbing.
Prepare for a rappel or cautious downclimb; always double-check anchors.
The last bolt can be difficult to spot on the final pitch, so bringing multiple cams is advised to cover some less obvious placement zones and add security.
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