"La Rencorosa challenges climbers with a sustained overhanging crux on a striking limestone dihedral in Northern Mexico’s El Salto. This powerful single pitch offers both demanding movement and a rewarding rest before the final push to the roof anchors."
La Rencorosa, translating aptly to The Grudge, commands attention in El Salto’s rugged Upper Tier—a province of limestone etched by time and challenge. This single-pitch sport climb stretches 115 feet along a massive dihedral wall, where the rock’s imposing angle shifts from vertical to overhanging in a sustained crux midway through the route. Climbing this section demands focus and power, as the route tightens into overhung terrain that tests your endurance and technique. Overcome the crux, and relief greets you—a rare full rest awaits, a welcome pause before you push upward toward the roof anchors.
Starting at the base, the initial slabs present sections of variable rock quality, with some loose patches that are expected to firm under persistent traffic. The path ascends through an impressive combination of holds and features that reward steady pacing. Nature remains an ever-watchful presence; in spring, the skies above hum with the circling glide of nesting vultures and hawks, adding a raw, alive feeling to the ascent.
For descent, a single 70-meter rope suffices to lower you cleanly back to the ground, with a couple of feet to spare. However, tying a knot at the rope’s end is essential, providing a failsafe against rappelling off the rope's tip inadvertently.
El Salto’s Upper Tier is accessible yet wild, offering a climbing experience that blends adrenaline with rugged natural beauty. Bolted protection with solid chains at the anchor ensure safety, but respect for the rock and its fragile lower sections is recommended. The route’s 5.11d rating frames the climb as a stiff challenge for intermediate to advanced climbers, especially given the demanding overhanging crux.
Whether you're chasing the test of power on sharp edges or the thrill of climbing beneath the watchful eyes of raptors, La Rencorosa delivers a gritty, authentic sport climb set against the striking backdrop of northern Mexico’s limestone cliffs. Prepare to push your limits here, embracing both the physical and mental demands of this bold route.
Some sections near the bottom feature questionable rock that may loosen; exercise caution on these areas and avoid relying heavily on any suspicious flakes. Additionally, be mindful of the rope length during descent by tying a stopper knot to prevent rappelling off the rope’s end.
Tie a knot at the end of your rope before rappelling.
Watch for loose rock in the lower angle sections; anticipate cleaner terrain with repeated ascents.
Spring season brings nesting vultures overhead—keep a respectful distance and minimize noise.
Bring shoes suited for overhangs with good edge support and agreeable sensitivity.
The route is protected entirely by bolts with reliable chains at the anchor. A 70-meter rope is sufficient for a clean rappel, but ensure to tie a stopper knot at the rope’s end to prevent rappelling off the tip.
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