HomeClimbingLa Recompensa

La Recompensa (The Reward): Bold Moves Above Cañon de San Lorenzo

Saltillo, Coahuila Mexico
slab
slick rock
single pitch
fixed anchor
sport climbing
technical moves
crack
northern mexico
Length: 35 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
La Recompensa
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"La Recompensa challenges climbers with a slick, graffiti-marked slab and technical sequences that demand precision and composure. This short but intense route rewards perseverance with confident moves and a secure top anchor, making it a standout sport climb in northern Mexico."

La Recompensa (The Reward): Bold Moves Above Cañon de San Lorenzo

La Recompensa stands as a sharp test of focus and finesse on a steep slab overlooking the rugged expanse of Cañon de San Lorenzo. From the first hold, climbers encounter a challenge not just technical but sensory—the slab’s surface bears the mark of graffiti, rendering the rock unexpectedly slick. This initial section demands careful footwork and the savvy use of a crack just to the left, which offers critical purchase. Tackling this move shifts the climb's character, elevating the difficulty and requiring steady nerve as you push past the polished start.

Once beyond the opening struggle, the route opens into a sequence that flows with surprising clarity. Good holds appear, inviting a rhythm that helps calm the pumping forearms. This middle section is playful, rewarding those who read the subtle shifts in rock texture and line with efficient movement. The route’s tone shifts once again upon reaching a narrower crack near the top, where the complexity revives with a short but demanding crux. At this moment, fatigue from the previous maneuvers will test mental grit and grip strength alike.

Successfully navigating this final obstacle delivers climbers to a generous jug hold, a moment of relief that validates the route’s namesake reward. The 35-foot wall here may be compact in length, yet it shapes a layered experience—from tentative footholds on the blemished slab to the comforting embrace of secure grips. The fixed anchor at the summit invites a smooth rappel descent, a sensible choice to preserve energy after the demanding moves.

This route is classified as sport climbing but is also suitable for top-rope setups, making it accessible for climbers building their lead skills. The required gear includes eight quickdraws to manage protection cleanly through the varied sequences. Timing your ascent for cooler parts of the day helps offset the slab’s slickness, especially late morning when the sun can warm the rock’s surface.

Set against the backdrop of northern Mexico’s Coahuila region, Cañon de San Lorenzo presents a raw climbing environment that challenges both precision and perseverance. The approach trails bring you through arid terrain marked by sparse vegetation and wide-open skies, letting the canyon’s broad vistas inspire the climb before the real work begins. Communicating route beta and local conditions among the limited visitors here enhances the experience, creating a quiet camaraderie between adventurers drawn to this less-trafficked gem.

Whether you are arriving with ambitions to push into the 5.10 range or simply seeking a compact but rewarding sport climb that sharpens technique, La Recompensa offers a memorable encounter with rock and sky. Prepare your chalk bag, double-check your draws, and get ready to test your balance and resolve on this distinct piece of Mexico’s climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the slab’s graffiti-marked surface, which can reduce friction unexpectedly. Reliable foot placements and thorough checks of the fixed anchor at the top are crucial, as the descent relies on a single rappel station.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat-warmed rock that increases slipperiness.

Use the crack to the left at the beginning to bypass slick holds, but be ready for a tougher grade.

Bring plenty of chalk, as the polished slab demands steady grip.

Check anchor gear and rappel setup before your descent to ensure safety.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, La Recompensa offers a stiff challenge primarily due to the slick start and the precise crack moves required early on. While the grade holds firm through the middle section, the crux near the top tightens the effort, demanding more body tension and stamina than expected for the length. Compared to other Mexican sport routes in the region, this climb leans on technical finesse over pure power.

Gear Requirements

Climbers will need eight quickdraws to protect the route fully, plus a rappel setup utilizing the fixed anchor at the top for safe descent. A top-rope option is also viable for less experienced lead climbers.

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Tags

slab
slick rock
single pitch
fixed anchor
sport climbing
technical moves
crack
northern mexico